Cumin: An Ancient and Thoroughly Modern Spice

Warm Chickpea Salad with Cumin and Garlic 

Cumin: An Ancient and Thoroughly Modern Spice

by Victoria Challancin

Many people think of cumin as a quintessential Mexican ingredient, and it may well be--in the north of the country.  But here in my corner of Mexico, cumin is used judiciously, with barely a whiff of it in any given dish.  And when there is too much cumin, the common response is the equivalent of "Yikes!  It tastes like Tex-Mex!"

Even though the cuisine of Mexico is one which is associated with an abundant use of cumin, the spice is a relative new-comer, arriving with the Spanish conquistadores.  Originating probably in Egypt, it spread to the Mediterranean (including Europe), India, Iran, and later through the trade route to China and other parts of the world.  From Europe it made its way to Mexico, where it does appear in many, many dishes, albeit sparingly used.

Cumin:  A Bit of History

Revered since antiquity as both a spice and as a medicinal plant, the history and lore surrounding cumin has had time to grow and settle.  With a history of over five thousand years, cumin comes to us today with a rich past.  Enjoyed by the ancient Egyptians as a culinary spice, it also was used in the mummification process as well as in ritual practices in temples.  The Old Testament mentions it several times, both as a source of currency for tithing and even how to harvest it!  The ancient Greeks loved it so much that they kept it on the table for diners to add directly to their food, just as in modern Morocco today (see the photos below).  And the Romans embraced it heartily and employed it in all sorts of dishes.

In early Europe, the Celts were known to have used it with fish dishes.  And later Medieval monasteries grew it in their herb gardens, helping to make it a common spice at a time when spices were somewhat rare and very expensive. At some point during the Middle Ages, however, cumin fell out of favor in Europe, except in Spain and Malta, where it remains popular today.

Unknown to the New World prior to around 1500, cumin came to the Americas via the Spanish and Portuguese colonists and traders, and took hold north and south.  Today it remains a fixture particularly in the cooking of Brazil, Mexico, and the American Southwest.

Cumin in Folklore

In ancient Greece, cumin symbolized excessive desire and was also said to be eaten by the miserly.  In ancient Roman folklore it was also often associated with greed, but also frugality.  Later, in the MIddle Ages in Europe, when cumin was one of the most common spices used, it became recognized as a symbol of love and fidelity as shown by wedding guests who often carried it in their pockets.  And as for the bride and groom, it was carried as a sign of commitment.  And soldiers were sent off to war with loaves of bread scented with cumin for good luck.  It was also thought effective in keeping lovers from wandering--lovers and chickens, that is.  Yes, it was used to keep both close to home.

The Arabs took it one step further:  they mixed it with black pepper and honey, considering it to have aphrodisiac properties.  Pliny the Elder, that great Roman naturalist and philosopher, also weighed in, calling cumin to be the "best appetizer of all condiments."  He also suggested that smoking the seeds would give a desirable "scholarly pallor."  And Socrates himself considered it beneficial as an aid to scholarly pursuits. 

Fresh cumin seeds from India, brought by a loving friend--in a coconut shell bowl

Culinary Uses 

After black pepper, cumin is the second most popular spice in the world, lending its distinctive aroma, warmth, and heady earthiness to the cuisines of Morocco, India, Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Iran, Malta, Cuba, northern Mexico, Spain, Brazil, the Middle East, Turkey, Uzbekistan, Tajkistan, and western China.  As for cumin's use in these countries, it often makes an appearance in such diverse spice blends as garam masala, curry powder, bahaarat, ras el hanout, American chili powder, and the Mexican blends for achiote paste and adobo.  Cumin also stars in some Dutch cheeses, such as Leyden, some traditional breads from France,  and in the Latvian cumin liqueur called Kummel.

Historically speaking, part of cumin's culinary popularity was due to the fact that its peppery flavor made it an affordable replacement for black pepper, which was hard to obtain and very expensive. Frugality couldn't possibly be the whole answer, however, as cumin does impart a sensuous depth and distinctive warmth to any dish it graces.

How to Use Cumin:

In addition to the various spice blends mentioned above, cumin is easy to incorporate in all sorts of dishes.  One easy example is to make a tea, or infusion, by allowing a teaspoon of cumin seeds to come to a boil in about a cup and a half of water, then leaving them to steep for about 10 minutes--in Morocco, this is a common remedy for upset stomachs.  Another easy way to incorporate cumin seeds into your cooking is to add them when roasting vegetables in olive oil.  

When I first began to seriously explore Indian cooking while living in the Middle East in the 1970s, I learned from a friend that a ratio of two parts ground coriander seeds to one part ground cumin seeds makes a great combination for seasoning all sorts of dishes--just use your imagination (I love it with tomato and rice).

Do you suffer from insomnia?  Try mashing a ripe banana with cumin and eating it at bedtime.

And a family favorite of my son's is a rice dish I made frequently when he was young (he ate it with corn):  Sauté basmati in ghee or butter with about teaspoon of freshly ground cumin (mix it with twice as much ground coriander as a variation), then cook it in either water or broth.  Easy and delicious.

When possible, buy whole cumin seeds, lightly toast them in a dry skillet for about 45 seconds, and grind your own powder.

Here is a recipe I made in class recently.  This salad is fantastic--truly it is.  Rich with warm, complex flavors, it is both interesting and easy to make. A keeper.  A definite keeper.

I found this recipe here at the wonderful and inspiring site:  The Kitchn at thekitchn.com.

Recipe:  Warm Chickpea Salad with Cumin and Garlic

(Recipe from The Kitchn)

Makes 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds

1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes, or to taste

4 garlic cloves, finely minced

2 15-ounce cans chickpeas (garbanzo beans), rinsed and drained

1/2 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and finely chopped

3/4 cup Italian parsley, leaves only

Small handful fresh mint leaves

1 lemon, zested and juiced

3/4 pound English cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch square cubes 

Flaky sea salt

Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat.  When the oil is hot, add the cumin seeds and crushed red pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for about one minute or until the seeds are toasted.  The cumin will turn slightly darker in color, and smell toasted.

Turn the heat to medium low and add the garlic.  Cook, stirring frequently, for about three minutes or until the garlic is barely golden.  Do not let it turn completely brown or burn.

Add the drained chickpeas and the chopped tomatoes and turn the heat up to medium high. Cook, stirring frequently, until the chickpeas are warmed through and are shiny with oil.  Turn off the heat.

Finely mince the parsley and mint leaves and toss with the chickpeas.  Stir in the lemon juice and zest. Toss the cucumber with the chickpeas and taste for salt.  

Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving or overnight.  Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Enjoy!

Warm Chickpea Salad with Cumin and Garlic

Health Benefits of Cumin

A Brief Overview of the Medicinal Uses of Cumin:

Cumin is often used:

•  as a diuretic
•  as a muscle relaxant and preventative for muscle cramps
•  as a carminative (gas-reducer)
•  as an appetite stimulant

Of course, there are many more ways cumin is used for health benefits, but this list illustrates the best known medicinal uses.  

Let's Play "Spot the Cumin"

See if you can find the cumin in these rather dim photos of candlelit dinners in Morocco, where it normally accompanies black pepper and salt on the table in a three-way mini tagine.

A hint:  an example of the mini three-way tagine in which you find cumin, salt, and black pepper

This post will be my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging, hosted by Brii of Brii Blog, and begun by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen.  This will be my entry to Spicie Foodie's Your Best Recipe event for May.  I will also send it to My Legume Love Affair, begun by Susan Wolfe of The Well Seasoned Cook and hosted this month by Priya of Mharo Rajasthan's Recipes.  Thank you to each of you!

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.


Like life, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using my text or photos.  Thanks!

Cool, Easy, Exotic: Moroccan Gazpacho

 Photo by my friend, Jennifer Haas

Cool, Easy, Exotic:  Moroccan Gazpacho

by Victoria Challancin

As I was scrolling through the lovely Kristen's Raw blog one day, I was instantly grabbed by her title: Moroccan Gazpacho...You have to try this!  Well, I certainly did have to try it.  I mean, gazpacho and Moroccan flavors all rolled into one?  Why hadn't I thought of this before?  

We know that I am not on a raw diet, but we also know that I am a true Moroccophile and lead groups there each year.  So an easy recipe using favorite spices with Moroccan flavor principles and lovely fresh local produce is just made for me.  Made for me, perhaps, but not for all of my Mexico cooks, with whom I prepared this one day in class.  One of my favorite students and an accomplished cook, Elvie, wrinkled her nose and pronounced it "strange."  Not for me--for my taste this is a perfect recipe and an exotic interpretation of a beloved stand-by recipe.

My friend, Jennifer, happily snapped these photos while I was teaching class.  Thank you, Jennifer.

                                                                                                                                                           Photo by Jennifer Haas

Cook's Notes:  I kept the ingredients the same, but wrote up the instructions in my own way.  I also toasted the pine nuts and recommend toasting whole spices and grinding them unless your spices are just really fresh!  Honey could be substituted for the agave nectar and regular sea salt for the Himalayan, though I used the ingredients as Kristen gave them.  Thank you, Kristen, for this new addition to my recipe file.

Recipe:  Moroccan Gazpacho

(Recipe by Kristen, of Kristen's Raw blog)

For the gazpacho:

1 cup water

4 tomatoes, chopped

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons agave nectar

1 teaspoon Himalayan crystal salt

1 teaspoon fresh ginger, peeled and grated

3/4 teaspoon ground cumin

3/4 teaspoon ground coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

For garnish:

1 chopped, seeded tomato

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

1/4 cup toasted pine nuts

1/4 cup raisins

Blend all of the ingredients for the soup in a blender.  Pulse in the cilantro until roughly chopped.  Serve chilled, garnished with the diced tomato, pine nuts, and raisins.

Enjoy!

Parting Shot:  Moroccan Heads

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Of course recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using text or photos.  Thanks!

Stopping to Eat the Flowers...Again

Goat Cheese Spread with Honey and Almonds...and Orange Blossom Water

Stopping to Eat the Flowers...Again
or
A Few Musings on Orange Blossom Water

by Victoria Challancin

Those of you who have followed my blog for a while, will probably remember when I stopped to eat the flowers in Istanbul, drooled over the roses in Morocco, and practically wept over the same in Paris.  I mean, we all love flowers, right?  What's not to love--these are simply the most perfect gift from nature that we have.  But do we all love to eat them?  Perhaps not.

Let's travel back in time a bit.  I realize that I have a curious relationship with orange blossoms, for example.  As a small child growing up in South Florida, I can still to this day almost smell the rather horrid and cheap orange blossom "perfume" that small airplanes sprayed over the dazzled crowd who gathered at the Orange Bowl in Miami every year, an event my family never missed.

And many years later, when I moved to the Middle East and experienced first the washing of my hands in rose water (and occasionally orange blossom water) before and after a meal, and later, the inclusion of the same in my food, I was instantly interested, but cautious. Perhaps it was that early over-exposure from the airplanes that made me cautious, but eventually, we made friends though.  And how.

To continue the theme, I later studied aromatherapy just for my own appreciation.  My love of orange blossoms grew even more upon my exposure to neroli essential oil,  the richly exotic, exciting, honey-scented, expensive oil produced from the blossom of the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium subsp. amara or Bigaradia).  And there are so many interesting uses for this...but I digress yet again.

And then in Morocco, where I have lead small groups each year for the past six years, I came full circle with my relationship with flowers as food, specifically orange blossom water, because in Morocco, it is a common ingredient in desserts and pastries. And it particularly shines with oranges themselves, which are frequently served for dessert dressed with a slight sprinkle of orange blossom water and cinnamon.  I can close my eyes, let the memory of the taste wash over me, and instantly transport myself to Morocco almost at whim.  That was when I truly realized that I liked eating flowers, far beyond the nasturtiums in my salad, that I loved actually ingesting their flowery essence.  It's like eating poetry...and that is a good thing.  Right?

Orange Blossom Water

Moving on in time to the present, I realized I needed to spread the love.  On Monday of this week I taught a group of Americans a Moroccan Cooking Class.  Many of the recipes we used were very traditional, but I chose an easy appetizer that while you would probably never see it in Morocco itself, does feature some of the true flavors of Morocco, with just enough orange flower water to give the dish that je ne sais quoi that makes a recipe shine.  And with that, I give you Goat Cheese Spread with Honey and Almonds.

Goat Cheese Spread with Honey, Almonds, and

Orange Blossom Water

(Recipe by Nisrine Merzouki's Marrakesh Express:  Recipes and Memories of Morocco)

Cook's Notes:  I would probably toast the almonds first, before crushing, just to enrich the flavor and bring out the color.  Being either frugal or a hedonist, and I suspect the latter, I chose to scrape up the leftover honey and almonds to serve in a separate bowl alongside the cheese--they were just too good to throw away.

1/4 cup honey

1/4 teaspoon orange flower water, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 cup sliced almonds, lightly crushed

6 ounces fresh goat cheese

Crackers or bread

In a saucepan, warm the honey with the orange flower water, cinnamon, ground cloves, and cardamom over low heat to allow the flavors to develop, about 2 minutes.  Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more orange flower water or spices according to your own taste.  Carefully our the warmed honey onto a large plate.

Place the sliced almonds in a plastic bag and crush lightly using your hands.  Spread the almonds evenly into a thin layer on a large shallow plate.

Shape the goat cheese into a disk.  Roll the cheese in the honey, covering all sides.  Roll the disk in the crushed almonds until well coated.  

Wrap the goat cheese tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate, 20 to 30 minutes, or longer.  Serve with crackers or bread.  

Enjoy!

I am submitting this post to Weekend Herb Blogging, which was begun by Kalyn Denny of Kalyn's Kitchen and is hosted this week by Graziana from Erbe in Cucina in both Italian and English.

A Moroccan embellishment...because, as with poetry, life can never have enough

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.


Please share the recipes, but ask permission before using the text or photos.  Thanks!

Two for One: Easy Empanadas for Tapas or Desssert

Two for One:  Easy Empanadas for Tapas or Desssert

by Victoria Challancin

As a part of a Spanish meal we prepared in class yesterday, I wanted to make some empanadas that could serve as either one of several tapas or a dessert.  I came up with this oh-so-easy recipe using fruit paste, sharp cheese cut with cream cheese, and a very nice buttery puff pastry made by a local bakery.  What could be simpler?  We nibbled on them with a nice wine brought by some good friends as a tapa, then continued to nibble on them for dessert.  Two-for-one.  A cook's dream.

Originally, I had intended to use quince paste (ate de membrillo in Spanish) in keeping with the Spanish theme, but once I spied this guava paste (see photo below) with agave nectar, the deal was sealed.  Guava it was.  And for those of you that will email me locally about the puff pastry, I buy Melissa's great product from Buena Vida Bakery, made with good butter, sold frozen at Luna de Queso or fresh by arrangement from the bakery itself  I chose a dry cotija, a strong, grainy, hard Mexican cheese (see my article on Understanding Mexican Cheeses here) to contrast with the sweetness of the guava paste.  And instead of glazing with an egg wash as I usually do, I decided to take my friend, Jorgi Crew's advice and brush the empanadas with simple syrup, which gave it a perfect finish.

This is such an easy and flexible recipe. Play with it and come up with your own combinations. For those of you who don't have access to ate or fruit paste, a marmelade or jam would also work, as would a reduced purée of fruit.  A few ideas that come to mind:  Pear Marmelade with Blue Cheese (yes, we know how I love this combination), Raspberry Chutney with Goat Cheese (with a touch of chipotle, as in this recipe I made here), Italian Mostarda with Gorgonzola, any good chutney with cheddar or manchego, Fig Preserves with Brie and Walnuts.  As always, use your imagination, remembering that a strong cheese will pair in a beautiful way with any fruit flavoring and will double as a nibble with wine or to finish off a meal.  Two for one.  Who can argue with that?

Guava (or Quince) and Cheese Empanadas

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin)

1 cup cream cheese, softened (8 oz or 227g)

½ cup cotija, manchego, goat cheese or other cheese of choice, grated or crumbled

1 cup quince or guava paste, (sold as ate de membrillo or ate de guayaba) 

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 egg, beaten

1 sheet puff pastry, thawed

Simple Syrup Glaze (see the recipe)

Mix the cheeses together with the quince paste and lime juice.  On a lightly floured surface, roll out the puff pastry to a rectangle 16 x 11 inches and 1/8-inch thick.  With a knife or pizza wheel, cut circles or squares of desired size.  Spread the cheese mixture over half of each dough piece, leaving ½ inch borders.  Brush the edges with beaten egg, fold the dough over to enclose the filling, and seal with fingers or the edges of a fork.  Cover with a damp towel and chill for a minimum of 30 minutes before baking.

Preheat oven to 350F/165C.

Place the empanadas on a baking sheet and brush the top with the simple syrup.  Cut three small slits on top of each.  Bake 30 minutes or until the dough is golden brown.  Transfer to a rack to cool.  Serve warm as dessert or as an appetizer with a glass of sherry or wine.

Simple Syrup Glaze

You can use any amounts with the ratio of twice as much sugar to water.

1 cup sugar

½ cup water

Combine sugar and water in a heavy saucepan and bring to the boiling point. Cool before brushing on empanadas.  You can also use an egg wash sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar to finish these empanadas.

Enjoy!

If you enjoyed this post, you might like the following recipes for "folded"  or stuffed appetizers:

• Miniature Filipino Springrolls (Lumpia)
• Potstickers:  Chinese Pan-fried Dumplings
• Heart-Shaped Goat Cheese Ravioli with Lemon-Arugula Sauce
• Butternut Squash, Sage, and Goat Cheese Ravioli with Hazelnut Brown-Butter Sauce
• Pigs in a Blanket with Curried Ketchup and Avocado Mayonnaise

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Cauliflower Steaks with Olive Relish and Tomato Sauce

 Cauliflower Steaks with Olive Relish and Tomato Sauce

Cauliflower Steaks with Olive Relish and Tomato Sauce

by Victoria Challancin

Note:  After four years of blogging, I finally got around to writing "About Me."  Why is that so hard to do?  Check it out and the Media section as well and let me know what you think!

Out of the mouths of babes...

I remember so clearly once when my son was about 3, his reaction when he came home with his father one day to hear me say I had a surprise for him.  "Oh, goody...Is it cauliflower?" he replied.  Now I ask you, is that a great response from a kid or what?  An answer to warm every mother's heart. But that is indeed the way I feel about cauliflower--a delightful treat, always welcome.

So when I saw the oh-so-attractive photo in the January 2012 edition of Bon Appetit, I immediately got sucked in.  I mean, "cauliflower steaks" ?  How great is that?  The very idea captivated my imagination.  Of course, the magazine made it sound so easy, and I must say that the cauliflower was a bit tricky to cut.  Tricky and crumbly.  Even so, the result was worth it. 

This recipe would make a lovely main dish for a vegetarian meal or an ample side dish with a light pasta.  I can now see this cauliflower "steak" idea working with so many cuisines.  Why not with a rich green Mexican pumpkin seed sauce (pipián).  Or with a tomatoey date-raisin-green olive combination for a hint of Morocco--and harissa.  A cabbage, horseradish, dill base?  Or perhaps some colcannon with a drizzle of mild parsley sauce atop? A rich Spanish romesco sauce would be lovely as well as would a lemony tomato-lentil sauce with a sprinkle of dukkah on top.  Curry (oh the possibilities--with a sweet-hot-sour chutney)?  Gremolata? Muhammara or the lovely tomato sauce I made with Shakshouka? Italian Salsa Verde and a coating of Parmesan?  A puddle of tomato sauce with cinnamon and a dollop of tzatziki on top?  Chimichurri?  And I haven't even let my imagination run further east to the various Asian cuisines that beckon.  Really, the cauliflower "steak" is just a vehicle.  Let your imagination run wild.

And as you think up new ways to use cauliflower, keep in mind its health benefits.  As a cruciferous vegetable, it has enormous potential as an anti-cancer plant.  It also provides detox support with the abundant antioxidant nutrients it contains (vitamin C, beta-carotene, quercetin, rutin, and more).  Because it is an excellent source of vitamin K, cauliflower also has anti-inflammatory properties, which in turn, supports cardiovascular health.  And fiber.  Never forget how important the cruciferous veggies are as a source of fiber.

Here is a terrific recipe that is near-perfect in my estimation.  Rich with hearty Mediterranean flavors, healthy, beautiful to look at, and not difficult (except for the crumbling...) to make.  A winner.

Recipe: Cauliflower Steaks with Olive Relish and Tomato Sauce

(Recipe from January 2012 Bon Appétit)

Makes 4 servings

1 large head of cauliflower

1/2 cup pitted oil-packed black olives, finely chopped [I only roughly chopped them]

3 sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced

3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, divided plus more

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 garlic cloves

2 plum tomatoes, cored, quartered

Remove leaves and trim stem end of cauliflower, leaving core intact.   Place cauliflower core side down on a work surface.  Using a large knife, slice cauliflower into four 1/2-inch "steaks" from center of cauliflower (reserve the florets that break loose).  Finely chop enough loose florets to measure 1/2 cup.  Transfer chopped florets to a small bowl and mix with olives, sun-dried tomatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, parsley, and lemon juice.  Season relish with salt and pepper.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.  

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large heavy ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat.  Working in 2 batches, cook cauliflower steaks until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side, adding a tablespoon of oil to pan between batches.  Transfer steaks to a large rimmed baking sheet.  Reserve skillet.  Roast cauliflower until tender in oven, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, return skillet to medium-high heat and add garlic cloves and tomatoes, cut side down.  Cook until tomatoes are browned; turn tomatoes over and transfer skillet to oven with cauliflower.  Roast garlic and tomatoes until tender, about 12 minutes.

Transfer garlic, tomatoes, and 1/2 tablespoon oil to a blender; purée until smooth.  SEason with salt and pepper.  Divide tomato sauce among plates.  Place 1 cauliflower steak on each plate; spoon relish over.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

Enjoy!

 Cauliflower Steaks with Olive Relish and Tomato Sauce

The Mexican cooks in a recent class I taught chose to serve the crumbly bits on a plate with a "steak" in the center so as not to waste anything, but the individual servings are nice as well.

Cauliflower Steaks with Olive Relish and Tomato Sauce

I'm submitting this post to Ivonne at Cream Puffs in Venice for her magazine Mondays blog event.  Many thanks, Ivonne.

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Osso Buco-Style Chicken

 Osso Buco-Style Chicken

              Osso Buco-Style Chicken

by Victoria Challancin

Thirty years later I can still remember the first time I prepared Osso Buco.  It was for a dinner party comprised of the loveliest group of international friends and colleagues who taught with me at university in Bahrain.  Crossing fingers, I prepared the dish with love and gusto (the only way!), pleased to see it disappear with a round of oohs and aahs, the sound every cook listens for in her heart.  The crowning touch was when I saw my dear friend Naz, the loveliest, most gentle, friend imaginable, eyeing the veal bone, denuded and lonely on my plate at the end of the main meal.  "Vicki," she gently asked, "do you think I could have your bone?"  Did I hear right?  Naz, the most refined and cultured of women, asking for the picked-over bone on my plate????  She then explained how when she was a child in the newly formed Pakistan, her grandmother would sit her on her knee and feed her, using a specially designed long silver spoon to coax the delectable marrow from the inside of cooked bones.  I was touched.  It wasn't the mangled corpse of a bone Naz was after, it was the untouched marrow I had callously overlooked.  Well, I can tell you, I don't overlook it anymore!

Ossobuco, a Milanese specialty, actually comes from the Italian osso buco, which means "bone with a hole" or "hollow bone."  Traditionally, it is served with gremolata, a chopped condiment of parsley, lemon zest, and garlic, as well as with a Milanese-style risotto.  The bone in question is a cross cut veal shank, which leaves the marrow exposed and easily accessible to discerning diners.  Cheap and flavorful, the veal shanks are braised with tomatoes and wine and garnished with fresh, sharp gremolata. 

Mexico, too, has its favorite dishes featuring bone marrow, which is called tuétano.  Here, bones are often roasted for their marrow, which is then spread on tortillas for delicious tacos or tostadas.

This recipe from the versatile and creative chef Rick Rodgers [you can check out his blog for epicurious.com here].  Rodgers uses chicken to give a flavorful, but very simple dish that is ultimately much easier to prepare than its namesake made with veal shanks.  In his original recipe, Rodgers uses only chicken thighs.  I adapted the recipe slightly to include legs and large chunks of boneless chicken breasts as well.

Note: If the idea of this delightful herb condiment appeals to you, check out the grapefruit gremolata that I wrote about here.

Osso Buco-Style Chicken

 (Adapted slightly from a recipe by Chef Rick Rodgers for Cooking LIght)

Makes 4 servings

Serve over polenta or rice, along with a steamed green vegetable, such as green beans. 

4 teaspoons olive oil, divided

8 chicken thighs (and/or drumsticks)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 medium onion, chopped

1 medium carrot, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 large celery rib, cut into 1/2-inch dice

2 garlic cloves, minced

3/4 cup dry white wine

1 1-inch strip of orange rind

1 bay leaf

½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped

1 teaspoon dried basil

1 teaspoon dried rosemary

One 28-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice

Gremolata

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1 garlic clove, minced

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Season the chicken with the salt and pepper. In batches without crowding, add skin-side down to the saucepan. Cook until the skin is browned, about 3 minutes, Turn the chicken and brown the other side, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the platter.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat in the pan. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil, scraping up the bits in pan. Add the orange rind and bay leaf.  Stir in the tomatoes with their juice, and the thyme, rosemary and basil. Return the chicken to the pan, nestling the pieces in the sauce, and bring to a boil.

Cover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the chicken show no sign of pink when pierced at the bone with the tip of a sharp knife, about 40 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, uncover the pan to help reduce the juices.

Just before serving, make the gremolata by mixing the parsley, zest, and garlic. Serve chicken and sauce, sprinkling each serving with gremolata.

Enjoy!

 Osso Buco-Style Chicken

I am submitting this post to Ivonne, of the delightful Cream Puffs in Venice for her blog event Magazine Mondays.  Thank you, Ivonne!

The Chili and Charros Cook-Off: A Bi-Cultural Event

A giant paper mache mojiganga

"Wish I had time for just one more bowl of chili."  Alleged dying words of Kit Carson (1809-1868), Frontiers Man and Mountain Man

The Chili and Charros Cook-Off:  A Bi-Cultural Event

by Victoria Challancin

Chiles may have originated in Mexico, but "Chili" is purely American, with hats off to Texas, New Mexico, and California.  And San Miguel de Allende's annual chili and charros (beans) cook-off is a perfect example of one of those rare occasions when the local gringos, especially the transplanted Texans, get to strut their stuff in an event that benefits various charities and provides a good time for the foreigners and locals alike.

 For the past six years the San Miguel Community Foundation has put on an outstanding event that benefits various charities and non-profit organizations in San Miguel.  "Chili and Charros" 2012 features a competition for Best Chili, Best Charro Beans, and Best Margaritas.  Local residents, restaurants, organizations, and temporary visitors here just for the event, compete for the various "crowns," with the proceeds going to charity.  In addition to the actual competitions, ticket-holders can sample the various chiles and charros, casting their votes for their favorites.  Also, live musical bands featuring different kinds of music, stunning rodeo ring performances, a denim jacket fashion show, donkey rides and face painting for children, and a silent auction round out a full day's activities.

Now I am not about to get into an argument involving any of the controversies that habitually swirl around the beloved regional dish of chili, such as: about where it originated, beans vs no-beans, the degree of heat required, or even the appropriate type of chiles to be used.  No, not this humble cook.  Reams have already been written on these topics, with more being added almost daily.  Let's just leave it to say that chili lovers take their recipes seriously, and nowhere it is more evident than in a good old-fashioned chili cook-off.

My well-used tasting bowl

Cornbread!  One booth served delicious cornbread to sop up equally delicious chili

Some Signs

Personal Note:  For the Chili Cook-Off I worked as a volunteer representative for Mujeres en Cambio, a non-profit organization that I have worked with for over 15 years.  This group, an all volunteer, grass-roots organization committed to enhancing the lives of women living in the rural communities surrounding San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, currently provides educational scholarships to 150 young women, 38 of whom are now in university.  As a former educator, this is particularly important to me, but I am equally proud of our rug hooking project, which developed into a women's craft cooperative that supports a number of rural families.

A Few of the Cooks

Props and Humor

A Bit of Other Food

One Satisfied Customer

Musicians, a Donkey, and Kids

My Own American-Style Chili

One of the best chilis I have ever made is a beanless version from the late Craig Claiborne which I found in an early New York Times Cookbook.  For years, this was my "go-to" recipe for chile.  When I had clients request that I teach an American-style chile here in Mexico, I had to come up with something I could produce in less time, hence the recipe below.  I cobbed the Homemade Chili Powder recipe together from various sources whose identities have been lost over time.  The chili itself is what my Mother made, although she used packaged spices and I prefer to grind my own.

Homemade Chili Powder

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin)

Cook's Note:  I change the chiles every time I make this, using whatever I have on hand, which is usually quite a selection.  Usually, I toast and grind whole spices as well instead of using previously ground ones.  This recipe can be used as a dry rub for meats as well as for chili.

3 ancho chiles, seeded and torn into pieces

1 chile pasilla, seeded and torn into pieces

1 guajillo chile or 4 chiles de árbol, torn into pieces

1 tablespoone cayenne

2 tablespoons ground coriander

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 tablespoon top-quality garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon sugar

Toast the chile pieces on a comal, griddle, or in a dry skillet until fragrant, being careful not to burn.  Briefly press the chile pieces with a spatula as they toast.  This process will take about a minute.  Grind the chiles to a powder in a spice mill or food processor.  Add the remaining ingredients and pulse again to combine.  Strain through a fine mesh strainer if a smoother texture is desired.

My Chili Recipe

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin)

Serves 10

1/2 lb dried pinto or red kidney beans, soaked overnight in water

3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil or bacon fat

2 large onions, chopped

5 garlic cloves, minced

2 lbs lean ground beef

3 (14.5-ounce) cans chopped tomatoes with juice (or use whole canned tomatoes and chop them)

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 to 6 tablespoons homemade chili powder (see recipe), or more to taste

1 to 2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, minced,  or 1 dried chipotle chile left whole

1 cinnamon stick

4 whole cloves

2 tablespoons masa harina, cornmeal, or cornstarch

Cook dried beans in water to cover for 1 1/2 hours or until done, adding more water as necessary.  You can also use a pressure cooker, but be careful not to cook the beans until they are mushy.

In a large, heavy pot heat the oil over medium heat.  Sauté onion and garlic until soft.  Add the ground beef; cook and stir until the meat is no longer pink.  Add tomatoes with liquid, salt, pepper, chili powder, chipotle chiles, cinnamon stick, and cloves.  Cover and simmer for 45 minutes.

Stir in cooked beans with a bit of their liquid, and cook another 25 minutes.  Remove cinnamon stick and dried chipotle chile, if using.  Mix in the masa harina. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes more to marry the flavor and thicken the chili, stirring occasionally.  Add more water or liquid from the cooked beans, if necessary.

Optional garnishes:  lime wedges, sour cream (preferably Mexican crema), shredded sharp cheddar cheese, cilantro, onion, and avocado cubes.

Enjoy!

And remember that it will be better the next day, for as in the words of businessman/humorist John Steele Gordon, "Chili is much improved by having had a day to contemplate its fate."

As for me, I would have to agree with the following words, apocryphal or not, that Pat Garret supposedly said to Billy the Kid, "Anybody that eats chili can't be all bad."  




©Victoria Challancin.  Please don't use photos or text without prior arrangement.  Thanks!