Tomatillo Jam and Morning Glory Muffins--Perfect for Easter Brunch!

Tomatillo Jam with a hint of citrus

Tomatillo Jam and Morning Glory Muffins--Perfect for Easter Brunch!

by Victoria Challancin

One of my good friends owns a very classy boutique hotel here in San Miguel that serves the most delicious tomatillo jam.  Because I know it to be her late mother's recipe and a personal treasure, I would never ask for the recipe.  Of course, that doesn't stop me from swooning over it and dreaming. In a recent class I decided to try make some version of this delicious treat, secretly knowing it would enhance my PBJ indulgences--and that my Mexican cooks would be dazzled.  I looked about and came up with a lovely version by Karen Hursh Graber of Mexico Connect.  I paired it with a family favorite from the King Arthur Flour Company,  Morning Glory Muffins,  which are so brimming with all things healthy that even my husband eats them.

But before I give you the recipes, let me repost a few notes on tomatillos from an earlier post of mine. For ideas on how to use them, see the original post here.

A Few Notes on Tomatillos

Let's blame it on the Spanish Conquistadors, shall we?  Blame them for exactly what this time, you ask?  That misnaming a variety of Aztec-based words that they just might not have understood at the time.  In Nahuatl, that wonderful agglutinated language of the ancient Aztecs, the word tomatl simply referred to any plum fruit with xitomatl referring to regular red tomatoes and miltomatl referring to tomatillos.  The Spanish, delighted with their new gastronomic finds, simply returned home with the term tomates, which is what they cal red tomatoes in Spain today and with tomatillo, or "little Tomato" to refer to tomatillos, the red tomato's little green cousins, or kissing cousins, as we like to say in the South, as they are only very distant relatives.

What exactly are tomatillos?  Like tomatoes themselves, they belong to the larger family of Solanaceae, or Nightshades, along with potatoes, eggplants, tobacco, mandrake, belladonna (are you seeing a connection with the "Deadly Nightshade" moniker yet?), chiles, and petunias, to name a few.  Breaking the family down a bit more, you find the genus "physalis" which includes gooseberries, ground cherries and tomatillos, all part of the kissing cousins of the Paper Lantern group, called this because some of them have papery cellulose husks which must be removed before eating.

Here in Mexico the names become even more confused.  Unlike the Spanish, Mexicans refer to their own red tomatoes as jitomates and tomatillos as tomates verdes (i.e. green tomatoes), or more commonly just tomates.  In all my years of teaching Mexican cooks, well over a thousand of them, I have never heard them call this fruit "tomatillos," though they certainly know the word; they always just say "tomates."

While typically found green in the markets, still nestled in their paper husks, other varieties also exist.  My favorite are the walnut-sized purple ones, which are slightly sweeter, and the very tiny green tomates de la milpa, or "tomatillos of the corn field," which are about the size of a blueberry.  When shopping for them, choose firm tomatillos that fill out the husk.  Remove the paper husk and scrub to remove the natural sticky substance on the surface of the fruit before using.

Nutritionally speaking, the tomatillo is a good source of iron, magnesium, phosphorus, and copper, as well as being rich in vitamin C and dietary fiber as well.

Tangy, bright, tart, the tomatillo is a perfect fruit to add a bit of zing to any number of dishes.  The interior of the tomatillo is highly seeded, yet the seeds are not removed as they often are with tomatoes; in fact, you probably can't remove them due to the way they are structured. Their tart lemony flavors lends itself beautiful to other Mexican ingredients such as avocado, and they are a perfect addition to a salad in their raw form.  And of course, let us not forget this heavenly tomatillo jam!

A healthy Morning Glory Muffin with a puddle of tomatillo jam

Recipe:  Tomatillo Jam

Mexican Tomatillo Jam

(Recipe by Karen Hursh Graber)

Mermelada de Tomate Verde

Makes about a half pint

1 pound tomatillos, husked, washed and chopped

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 cup water

1/4 cup lime juice

Zest of 1lime

Zest of 1 orange

Pinch of salt

Place all ingredients in a large pot, stir, bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer until thickened to a loose jam.  It will thicken more as it cools.  Ladle into a sterilized half-pint jar, cover and allow to cool.  Refrigerate for up to 6 months.

The muffins alone 

Cook's Notes:  These easy-to-make muffins (the grating of the apple and carrot are the most difficult part--hardly difficult at all!) are absolutely delicious.  I am always pleased that recipe makes so many, then surprised when they don't last a nanosecond in our house!  These muffins hardly need either butter or jam (I use both), but a smear of cream cheese is just wonderful.

Recipe:  Morning Glory Muffins

(Recipe from The King Arthur Flour Company)

Makes 12 muffins (I always get more than this)

1/2 cup (2 1/2 ounces) raisins

2 cups (8 1/2 ounces) whole wheat flour, traditional or white whole wheat

1 cup (7 1/2 ounces brown sugar

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups (7 ounces) carrots, peeled and grated (I don't bother to peel them)

1 large tart apple, peeled, cored, and grated

1/2 cup (2 ounces) sweetened shredded coconut

1/2 cup (2 ounces) chopped walnuts (or other nut of choice)

1/3 cup (1 1/2 ounces) sunflower seeds or wheat germ, optional (don't leave out the seeds!)

3 large eggs

2/3 cup (4 5/8 ounces) vegetable oil

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/4 cup (2 ounces) orange juice

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.  Lightly grease a 12-cup muffin tin, or line it with papers and spray the insides of the papers.

To make the muffins:  In a small bowl, cover the raisins with hot water, and set them aside to soak and plump while you assemble the rest of the recipe.  In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking soda, spices, and salt.  Stir in the carrots, apple, coconut, nuts, and sunflower seeds or wheat germ, if using.  

In a separate bowl, beat together the eggs, oil, vanilla, and orange juice.  Add to the flour mixture, and stir until evenly moistened.  

Drain the raisins and stir them in.  Dived the batter among the wells of the prepared pan (they will be full almost to the top)

Bake for 25 to 28 minutes, until nicely domed and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.  Remove from oven, let cool for 5 minutes in the pan on a rack, then turn out of pan to finish cooling.

Morning Glory Muffin with Tomatillo Jam (on my mothers Wedgwood)

The tomatillo jam...with a Moroccan spoon

Happy Easter!

Parting Shot:  Detail from a Mexican Tree of Life

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Flavors of the Sun International Cooking School

San Miguel de Allende, México

Upside-Down Comfort

Upside-Down Comfort

by Victoria Challancin

There are times when I miss my family and my roots so much that I just get over-whelmed by the need of comfort food.  I may not have lived in rural South Florida since the 70s, but roots I have there. And while I occasionally feel, in a weak moment, that I claim expedient parentage (i.e. sometimes I glam onto my French-Italian paternal links, and sometimes my mother's down-home Southern "Georgia" genes), when I look for comfort, I look toward the south, the Deep South, that is. The Deep South of the United States.  It seems not to matter that I haven't lived there really since the mid-70s when I first left for an overseas posting; I still look to my mother's home cooking for comfort.

And what better old-fashioned comfort than a basic Chicken Pot Pie, I ask?  But when I wanted to teach it in my classes for Mexican cooks, guilt took over and I just had to tart it up a bit, make it modern, pretend that it was far more upscale than it really is.  When I spied these modern, upscale, tarted up chicken pot pie disguised in 21st-century garb (in the September edition of the Canadian magazine Chatelaine), I knew I had found a perfect marriage:  comfort food + a hint of modernity to make it truly acceptable for a cooking class.

 Puff Pastry Squares with Onion and Peppers

I have made many Chicken Pot Pies, in my day.  Many.  Often pretending that they were modern and fresh, I always secretly knew that I was just seeking basic comfort, just like my Mom, and occasionally Swanson's jazzed up frozen ones, offered me in my youth.  I have made them whole wheat crusts, Cheddar crusts, latticed crust, with biscuits, with biscuit mix (yes, I know...), with herb-enriched pastry, with frozen pastry, with phyllo...and filled with many things other than the basic chicken and vegetables as well.  So when I saw this recipe, I just took the basic idea and then decided to wing it with the filling.  I forgot when writing it down that I sometimes add a splash of sherry, which my own mother would never have done.  Nor did I here, for that matter.  But only because I forgot.  

Cook's Notes:  What you are looking for here is just a basic mix of vegetables to go with your chicken and sauce(I poached the chicken here).  I have added asparagus, carrots, turnips, rutabaga (oh, I would kill for some rutabaga now, but can't yet find it here), potatoes, sweet potatoes, butternut squash, fresh corn...etc.  But to me the essentials really are just mushrooms, broccoli, and peas.  Yes, frozen peas.  I know.  I know.  I am stretching it here.

Upside-Down Chicken Pot Pies

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin, inspired by the September 2015 edition of Chatelaine Magazine)

Serves 4

500g puff pastry (for San Miguelenses:  from Buena Vida Bakery via Luna de Queso), thawed

1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water

1 small red onion, cut into thin rings

1 red bell pepper, cut into thin rounds (or a mix of red and yellow peppers)

1 teaspoon vegetable oil for greasing baking sheet

2 skinless, cooked boneless chicken breasts, cut into bite-sized pieces

1/2 cup butter

1/2 cup flour

3 cups milk or half and half (light cream)

1/4 teaspoon turmeric (optional)

1 1/2 cups rich chicken broth

1 cup broccoli florets

1 cup mushroom slices

1 cup frozen peas

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 teaspoon lemon juice (optional--you could also add a healthy splash of sherry to the broth)

1 tablespoon chopped parsley, or to taste

Preheat oven to 400F.  Unroll pastry and extend it to a square, measuring 10 x 10 inches.  Cut into either4 large squares or 16 2 1/2-inch squares (or desired size).  Score a border of 1/2-inch around each square and prick the inside with a fork.  Set on a lightly oiled baking sheet.  Brush lightly with egg wash and top each square with slices of onion and bell pepper.  Bake in center of oven until pastry is lightly golden, 18 to 20 minutes.

Melt butter in large pot. When melted, whisk in flour. Cook, whisking constantly for 1 to 2  minutes to make a roux. Slowly whisk in milk or half and half  and turmeric until evenly mixed. Bring to a gentle boil, then stir in chicken, broccoli, mushrooms, and salt. Cook until broccoli is tender-crisp, 3 to 5 more min. Stir in frozen peas and cook for about 45 seconds.  Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice, if using, and season with salt and black pepper. Spoon about 1 cup chicken mixture over each baked puff-pastry square if using large ones, or over three squares if small.  Garnish with a touch of chopped parsley, if desired.

 Puff Pastry Squares with Chicken Pot Pie Filling

 Proper Chicken Pot Pies (and under no circumstances are you to ask what is going on behind them with one of my student's experiments)

Parting Shot:

 ©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Bánh Mì Brown Rice Salad and Oxymorons

 Bánh Mì Brown Rice Salad and Oxymorons

by Victoria Challancin

I do love the typical foolery of good oxymoron, and yet I cringe at being the creator of one.  "Oxymoron," you ask? What does Bánh Mì Rice Salad have to do with oxymorons?  Because the term "báhn mì" is Vietnamese for "bread", and there is nary a whiff of bread in this salad.  So to back up...let's examine exactly what we are talking about here.

Although I have been lucky in my life to travel extensively in Asia (Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Taiwan, the Philippines, Japan, and bits of China--many of these countries multiple times), I have never traveled to Vietnam (nor Myanmar, for that matter)--and yet, Vietnamese food is one of my favorite cuisines.  When in Paris, or other places where a concentration of Vietnamese people guarantees good Vietnamese restaurants, I always head there, loving the bright, fresh, clean taste of the food, heady with fresh herbs and just screaming "Healthy!"  Yet, I have never traveled in the country itself.  Yet.

After a bit of experience with a favorite snack sandwich to grab on the go, I thought I had a handle on the "Bánh Mì," or Vietnamese Baguette Sandwich.  That is until I read a post by a favorite Australian blogging friend, Lorraine Elliot of the popular Not Quite Nigella blog.  In Lorraine's post "The Amazing Bánh Mì Race" she reviews a selection of Sydney's ten best bánh mì sandwiches that will make you weep with envy, or at least drool.  Or perhaps lick the screen.

Of course the French occupation of  French Indochina, now Vietnam, left a huge impact on the cuisine, often creating a happy fusion of both ingredients and techniques.  The bánh mì sandwich is one example.  The "bánh mì", or bread, here is a type of Vietnamese baguette, but one made with rice flour as well as the traditional wheat flour, or mì, which yields a lighter loaf.  The bánh mì sandwich typically is filled with "seasoned pork belly, Vietnamese sausage, grilled pork, grilled pork patties, spreadable pork liver pâté, pork floss, grilled chicken, chicken floss, canned sardines in tomato sauce, soft pork meatballs in tomato sauce, head cheese, fried eggs, and tofu," or so Wikipedia tells me.  Not having traveled the country, I can only attest to some version of pork belly in the many báhn mìs I have tried.  But my mouth waters thinking of other possibilities.

A bit more fun history of the bánh mì sandwich from Wikipedia, says that a vegetarian version of any sandwiches, such as a báhn mì made with tofu or seitan,  are not really found as street food in Vietnam, but are prepared at Buddhist temples during special religious events.  In the US, the sandwich can also be found under the name of "Vietnamese sandwich", or in Louisiana a "Vietnamese po' boy, or in Philadelphia as a "Vietnamese hoagie," the common thread being the baguette that is used as the bread wrapper.

When I saw a recipe for a salad version of bánh mì in the new edition of Coastal Living Magazine, I new immediately that I would like it.  Filled with the ingredients I expected, I knew it would have that clean, fresh taste that always draws me to Vietnamese food.  And it does!  And I could eat the lovely pickled red onion and carrots just with a fork on their own--soooo good and light.

Cook's Notes:  I doubled the amount of the rice vinegar dressing, and used Mexican pickled red serrano chiles and pickled jalapeños instead of fresh ones.  I had to peel a waxed cucumber as I didn't have any English ones.  Plus, I added some onion sprouts just because I had them and thought them pretty.  I don't think basil leaves would go amiss either, but that might be even less authentic than serving this as a salad.  Not sure.  We made this in one of my cooking classes for Mexica cooks last week and I used pork milanesas, which were already sliced thin.  I should have cooked these on an iron grill pan, to really give the pork that roasted flavor, instead of the "green" pan we used, which didn't really brown it enough.  Still, this is a great salad.

                              Bánh Mì Brown Rice Salad

(Recipe from Coastal Living Magazine, September 2015)

Makes 4 servings

3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons rice vinegar, divided

4 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar, divided 

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1 cup julienne-cut carrot

1 cup vertically sliced red onion

1 pound trimmed boneless pork shoulder, cut into very thin slices

2 tablespoons fish sauce, divided

1 tablespoon canola oil 

1/2 English cucumber, thinly sliced 

1 jalapeño, thinly sliced

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves

3 cups hot cooked brown rice

Asian chili-garlic sauce (optional)

Combine 3/4 cup water, 3/4 cup rice vinegar, 3 tablespoons sugar, and 1 teaspoon salt in a medium saucepan; bring to a boil. Add carrot and onion; cook 30 seconds. Remove from heat, and let stand 25 minutes. Drain.

Place pork in a medium bowl. Add 1 tablespoon fish sauce, 2 teaspoons sugar, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt; massage into pork. Let stand at room temperature 20 minutes.

Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add half of pork; cook 3 minutes or until lightly charred, stirring once. Remove from pan; repeat with remaining pork.

Combine 1/4 cup water, remaining 3 tablespoons rice vinegar, remaining 2 teaspoons sugar, and remaining 1 tablespoon fish sauce in a small bowl, stirring until sugar dissolves.

Arrange cucumber slices, pork, pickled onion and carrot, jalapeño, and cilantro on a platter. Drizzle evenly with dressing. Serve with cooked brown rice and chili-garlic sauce, if desired

Parting Shot:  A bit of fun from El Zaguán Hotel Bed and Art

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Flavors of the Sun Cooking School and Travel

San Miguel de Allende, México

Baked Risotto--Is It Possible?

Baked Risotto--Is It Possible?

by Victoria Challancin

Baked risotto?  Is it possible to make this normally labor-intensive Italian rice dish in the oven?  Is it even worth the time?  Is it desirable?  Is it sacrilege?  Are my northern Italian relatives quaking in their boots at the mere thought of it?  The answers to these burning questions are: yes, yes, yes, yes, I hope not, and probably.

Having spent many a long hour at the stove stirring a pot of creamy, unctuous, glossy risotto, I was intrigued when I encountered this easy baked version by Ina Garten, the Barefoot Contessa of the US Food Network.  Perhaps being skeptical by nature, I seriously doubted that it would yield anything even close to the classic version of this recipe, which calls for adding liquid bit by bit (often stock and wine) to a pot of short- or medium-grain rice which has been lightly sautéed in butter or olive oil, stirring constantly, until the requisite five or six liters have been completely absorbed.  You can see why I might question the efficacy of this modern technique.  You can also probably see why I was intrigued.  Think of the savings in time, much less in effort.  And a good pot of risotto does require real effort!

Did it produce an acceptable result?  Indeed it did--and one that I will use again and again.

First of all, let's learn a bit of history of this classic Italian rice preparation.

Risotto--A Bit of History and Background

Because of the universal popularity of Italian pasta dishes, it is easy to overlook the immensely popular rice dishes of the north of the country.  But the rices of Italy are not only popular, they are singular.  En route to Spain  in the 10th century, Arab traders introduced rice to Sicily.  By the 13th and 14th centuries, rice had made its way north where it found a happy home in the rich Po Valley and beyond.  And even today, Italy is the largest rice producer in Europe with the main production still concentrated along the Po Valley.

Risotto is probably the most famous of the Italian rice dishes, but exactly what is it?  Although there are countless versions using vegetables, seafood, meat, squid ink, and more, a basic risotto is made by lightly sautéing a high-starch, medium- or short-grain white rice (and wine) and adding broth slowly, stirring constantly, until it is absorbed, at which time grated Parmesan or a similar cheese is added plus a bit of butter to round it out.  A properly prepared risotto is cooked "al dente," with each grain of rice retaining its distinct shape and texture.  Never is it mushy, gluey, or overly creamy.  Needless to say, this can be a somewhat challenging and time-consuming dish to prepare, but I am happy to report that this baked version is good.  Would it pass muster with Italian gourmets?  Maybe not.  Is it something I would serve in my own home?  Yes.

Rice Varieties

Can just any rice be used for risotto?  The answer is a resounding "no."  While there are many varieties that can be used, the chosen rice must contain the right kind of starch.  Rice contains two types of starches called amylose and amylopectin, though the ratio differs in different varieties. Without getting to technical, the necessary rice appropriate for making risotto must have low amylose levels, so that when cooked, the rice will remain soft and sticky.  It should also have a higher concentration of amylopectin in its soft outer layer, which when released during cooking creates the desirable creamy texture.  Here are a few of the Italian rices typically used for risotto:

• Carnaroli--considered to be the "King of Rice" in Italy with its delicate nutty flavor

• Vialone Nano--Less grainy than Carnaroli, but appreciated for its softness; it blends well with vegetables such as pumpkin, mushrooms, and asparagus, as well as with meats

• Arborio--readily available and considerably cheaper than the two previously mentioned rices, it is commonly used in risotto dishes, but with the caveat that it can lose the texture of the individual grains when cooked and become somewhat gummy

• Other types of rice used for making risotto are:  Sant'Andrea, Balilla, Baldo, Roma, Ribe Padano, Maratelli, and Originario

Basic Preparation

I am taking this directly from Wikipedia, so please excuse:  "The rice is first cooked briefly in a soffritto of onion and butter or olive oil to coat each grain in a film of fat, called tostatura; white or red wine is added and has to be absorbed by the grains.  When it has evaporated, the heat is raised to medium high and very hot stock is gradually added in small amounts while stirring gently, almost constantly; stirring loosens the starch molecules from the outside of the rice grains into the surrounding liquid, creating a smooth creamy-textured liquid.  At that point it is taken off the heat for the mantecatura when diced cold butter is vigorously stirred in to make the texture as creamy and smooth as possible.  It may be removed from the heat a few minutes earlier, and left to cook with its residual heat."  [Thank you WikiPedia, I couldn't have said it better if I tried].

Classic Risotto Preparations

[from WikiPedia yet again]

• Risotto alla milanese--a specialty of Milan, made with beef stock, beef bone marrow, lard (instead of butter) and cheese, flavored and colored with saffron
• Risotto al Barolo--a specialty of Piedmont, made with red wine and may include sausage meat and/or Borlotti beans
• Risotto al nero de seppia--A specialty of the Veneto region, made with cuttlefish cooked with their ink-sacs intact leaving the risotto black
• Risi e Bisi--A Veneto spring dish that is correctly served with a spoon, not a fork; it is a soup so thick it looks like a risotto.  It is made with green peas using the stock from fresh young pea pods and pancetta
• Risotto alla zucca--made with pumpkin, nutmeg, and grated cheese
• Risotto all pilota--a specialty of Mantua, made with sausage, pork, and Parmesan cheese

And here is the simplified version I made in a recent cooking class with Mexican students:

Recipe:  Easy Oven Parmesan "Risotto"

(Recipe by Ina Garten, Food Network)

Serves 4 to 6

1 1/2 cups Arborio rice 

5 cups simmering chicken stock, preferably homemade, divided

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup dry white wine

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup frozen peas

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place the rice and 4 cups of the chicken stock in a Dutch oven, such as Le Creuset. Cover and bake for 45 minutes, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the rice is al dente. Remove from the oven, add the remaining cup of chicken stock, the Parmesan, wine, butter, salt, and pepper, and stir vigorously for 2 to 3 minutes, until the rice is thick and creamy. Add the peas and stir until heated through. Serve hot.

An Easy, Fast Italian Appetizer

OK.  I realize this photo isn't going to win any prizes, nor does it look like anything you might want to serve.  But please consider that I just threw this together at the end of a cooking class on Italian Cuisine for Mexican Cooks, simply because I had the basic ingredients on hand and we had enough remaining time in which to make it. This recipe from Italian-American Chef and television personality Michael Chiarello, has long been a staple in my home for a quick hors d'oeuvre that never fails to deliver. In fact, I have never served it that I didn't receive requests for the recipe.  Yes, a touch of chopped parsley on top wouldn't have gone amiss.  Or a sprinkle of capers...perhaps some cornichon.  This was a rush job just so the cooks could taste it and take home an easy recipe.

Cook's Notes:I usually sharpen the flavvor with a touch more lemon juice and/or vinegar.  This is one of those dishes you can easily play with until you get the results that work best for your palate.

Recipe:  Spuma di Tonno - Italian Tuna Mousse 

(Recipe by Michael Chiarello from either Food Network or Food and Wine Magazine)   

1 can (7 ounce or 200 gram) imported oil-packed tuna, drained

 2 teaspoons fresh squeezed lemon juice

 2 teaspoon soy sauce

 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

 1 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon unsalted butter, room temperature

 Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

 1 tablespoons heavy cream

Put the tuna in a food processor and pulse to break up the fish. With the machine running, add the butter, cream, balsamic vinegar, and soy sauce and blend until smooth. Then stop the machine and scrape down the sides of the processor bowl. Add the lemon juice and pulse again. Season, to taste, with salt and pepper and blend again. Check the seasoning, then add the heavy cream and pulse to blend. NOTE: Be careful not to over blend once the cream is added or the mixture may break.

Serve at room temperature, or cover and refrigerate for up to 4 days. If refrigerated, return the spuma to room temperature before serving. Serve with breadstick, crostini, or crackers to spread it on. Also excellent served with champagne.

Parting Shots:  The Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech

As I prepare to lead my tenth small group to Morocco in April, I am revisiting photos from past trips, and basking in happy memories.  Here are a few shots of cacti from the Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech, which was purchased by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé in 1980 and completely restored.  The grounds also houses the truly incredible Berber Museum, which is dedicated to the Berber Culture of Morocco.

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Please ask permission before using text or photos.

Victoria Challancin

Flavors of the Sun Cooking School and Travel

San Miguel de Allende,

México

Mushroom Kofteh with Green Harissa

Vegetarian Herb-Laden Mushroom Kofteh with Green Harissa Sauce 

Mushroom Kofteh with Green Harissa

by Victoria Challancin

In honor of the upcoming tour I will lead to Morocco in April, I thought it was time to give a nod to a Moroccan recipe--or vaguely a Moroccan recipe.  Or a Persian recipe with a Moroccan sauce.  Perhaps I should say a "modern take on two iconic recipes from Iran and Morocco."  I could even just offer this delightful recipe up to you as a modern vegetarian recipe from my imaginary World Cafe.   

These mushroom patties, or kofteh (usually kefteh in Morocco), are a lovely vegetarian riff on the classic grilled meat patties known all over the Middle East, Near East, East Asia,  and North Africa.  Meat kofteh (spellings vary greatly) are generally redolent with garlic and fresh herbs as is this lovely vegetarian version by Chef Hoss Zaré, who features his native Persian cooking and modern interpretations of it in his Flytrap restaurant in San Francisco.  Remaining true to the Persian love of fresh herbs, Zaré offers here a rich, but light, vegetarian version of the classic grilled street food, but pairs it with another riff on a classic recipe, this time harissa, the staple red table sauce in Tunisia and Morocco.

For more information about harissa, click on my article Harissa:  A North African Condiment.  In this post I show you lots of photos of how harissa appears on the tables and in the markets of Morocco, along with a bit of history and my own personal recipe for a more traditional red harissa, which I developed over the years on my many journeys in Morocco--plus with a little help from my lovely friend Latifah.  If you like a bit of spice and kick to your food, you might just find yourself becoming addicted to this lively table condiment, no matter whether it is red or green!

 Mushroom Kofteh with Green Harissa

Cook's Notes:  The original recipe also includes an asparagus pesto, which I am certain would be delicious.  I thought, given the rest of my menu, that it might be gilding the lily, so I simply eliminated it.  Do check it out, though, as it looks tasty!  I used crimini mushrooms rather than a mix as that is what I easily found at the store.

Recipe:  Mushroom Kofteh with Green Harissa

(Adapted from a recipe by Hoss Zaré for Food and Wine Magazine)

Serves 8

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
1 1/2 pounds assorted wild mushrooms, such as oyster and stemmed shiitake, thinly sliced (8 cups)
Salt
1 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (2 ounces)
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped basil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 large eggs
2 large egg whites
Green Harissa (see the following recipe) for serving

In a nonstick skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil.  Add the mushrooms, season with salt and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 12 minutes.  Transfer the mushrooms to a work surface and let cool slightly, then coarsely chop.  Transfer the mushrooms to a large bowl.  Add the panko, cheese, parsley, basil, lemon juice and cayenne and season with salt.  Add the eggs and egg whites and knead the mixture to combine.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.  Using lightly moistened hands, form the mushroom mixture into six 1-inch-thick patties and set them on the baking sheet.  Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.  Preheat a grill pan or a griddle, preferable nonstick, and brush with olive oil.  Brush the kofteh with oil and grill over high heat, turning once, until browned, about 5 minutes.  Return the kofteh to the baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, until hot throughout.  Serve the kofteh with Green Harissa.

 Mushroom Kofteh with Green Harissa

Recipe:  Green Harissa

(Recipe by Hoss Zaré for Food and Wine Magazine)

Makes 1 cup

1/2 packed cup baby spinach leaves

1/2 packed cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 small jalapeños, seeded and coarsely chopped

2 garlic cloves

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a blender pulse the spinach, parsley, paprika, cumin, cardamom, coriander, jalapeños garlic, lemon zest, orange zest, lemon juice and orange juice until the greens are chopped. With the machine on, add the oil and puree.  Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Mushroom Kofteh with Green Harissa

For information about the international tours I lead each year (cultural rather than culinary--though with lots of great food!), email me.

Parting Shots:

Paris Tour:  April 13-20, 2014

 I'll be having tea here soon!

Morocco Tour:  April 23-May 8, 2014

 That's a turban-wrapped me on the lead camel, taking this photo in 2013!

©Victoria Challancin.   All Rights Reserved.

Please ask permission before using photos or text.  Thanks!

Chicken Mofongo--Caribbean Fusion Food

Chicken Mofongo

Chicken Mofongo--Caribbean Fusion Food
by Victoria Challancin

To my readers:  After a rather lengthy hiatus when Life just got in the way, I am happy to be with you again--and ready to share lots of new recipes and ideas.  Thank you for your patience and also for your words of encouragement!

Mofongo.  Doesn't the word itself just gyrate across your tongue, calling up images of some exotic African dance?  When I eat mofongo, just by its name, I know I am delving into the world of fusion, fusion with hints of Africa, the Caribbean, Spain, and even South America.  Though mofongo may conjure up different things to different people (I am imagining my blog friend Norma of the wonderful Platanos, Mangoes and Me, crying out for an authentic Puerto Rican version of this dish, which is considerably different from this one), there is an underlying symphony of ingredients that usually shines through, with plantains as the main star.  In fact, mofongo is perfect fusion food with exotic tropical plantains brought to the Caribbean via Africa, blending with a typical Caribbean sofrito ( a melange of tomatoes, peppers, onion, garlic, and herbs), heightened with typical Spanish Iberic flavors of olive oil and garlic.  An Afro-Caribbean-Spanish is a feast for the senses and a delight to the palate.

Whether it contains mainly seasoned mashed plantains, or adds shrimp, fish, chicken, or even pork (especially pork cracklings), mofongo is simply one of those recipes you must try.  This version from The New York Times is so simple to make and fairly sings with its medley of ingredients, such as plantains, olives, tomatoes, onion, bell pepper, and subtle spices.  Serve it over steamed rice with a simple salad and you have an easy-to-prepare week-night meal and a recipe that you will surely return to over and over.

Cooking with Plantains

If you have never cooked with plantains, then you should certainly get to know this versatile ingredient.  This tropical fruit, a starchy type of banana,  also belongs to the genus Musaceae, as do regular bananas.  It is usually eaten cooked.  In fact, unless very, very ripe, a raw plantain can give you a stomach ache!

As a staple food in tropical regions throughout the world, plantains are listed as the tenth most important staple that feeds the world, after corn, wheat, rice, potatoes, cassava, soybeans, sweet potatoes, sorghum, and yams.  The unripe fruit, which is available year round in tropical climates,  can be cooked by steaming, boiling, or frying.  And because it is so readily available and cheap, it is particularly popular in developing countries with inadequate food storage, preservation and transportation.

To peel a plantain:  Because the skin is quite tough and thick, it is best to peel a plantain with a knife, after first cutting off the ends.  Cut the plantain into sections, then slit the peel vertically, and under running water, to avoid staining your hands, simply slip the skin off.  It is then ready to cook. If delaying the cooking, simply place the peeled fruit in salted water to keep it from discoloring

Which stage of ripeness should you choose?

Plantains can be used for cooking at any stage of ripeness:

• Green--these are firm and starchy, resembling potatoes in flavor
• Yellow--these are softer, yet still quite starchy, with a sweeter flavor
• Yellow/black--these have a deep yellow pulp that is much sweeter than the green or yellow stages of ripeness and can even be used in desserts 
• Very black--while many people shy away from a soft, black banana, this is the stage of ripeness for plantains that is sweetest and can be eaten raw (though I don't recommend it); it will always be somewhat starchy and not as sweet as a "dessert" banana

Fun Facts Mofongo and Plantains:

• In Puerto Rica, mofongo is a fried plantain-based dish typically made with green plantains mashed together with broth, garlic, olive oil, and pork cracklings or bacon.  This version, whether filled with vegetables, meat, or seafood, is often served with a meat-, fish-, and/or chicken-based broth
• In the Dominican Republic, mofongo is often called mangú
• In Cuba, the dish is usually called fufu spellings vary) or fufu de platano
• All of these versions have their origins in the African fufu (also called foufou, foutou, or fougou)
• Although plantains are usually used to make mofongo, other starchy vegetables, such as cassava or bread fruit can be used
• Plantains originated in India
• The difference between the two terms "banana" and "plantain" is based on how the fruit is consumed, raw or cooked, as both belong to the same botanical genus
• Plantains in this banana form should not be confused with the herb plantain, which bears no fruit at all, but is rather a weed whose leaves are used for wound healing and inflammation
• The reason why plantains are cooked is that they contain much more starch and less sugar than regular dessert bananas
• Plantains can be roasted whole in their skins
• When green, they are always eaten cooked or fried, as in the fabulous Colombian dish patacones, which my friend Adriana prepares to perfection (she even puts strips of plantain in her sushi, which, believe it or not, works!)
• When mature yellow-black plantains are fired, their sugars will caramelize
• A plantain contains about 65% moisture as compared to a regular banana, which has about 83%
• An average plantain has about 220 calories and is a good source of dietary fiber and potassium
• In Central American and the Caribbean (Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana, Honduras, and Jamaica) plantains are typically fried, boiled or added to soup
• In Kerala, India, plantains are steamed and served as a popular breakfast food
• In the West African country of Ghana, plantains are boiled and eaten with a cabbege or fish stew
• In Nigeria, plantains are eaten boiled, fried, or roasted with one roasted version called boli eaten with palm oil or groundnut (peanut)
• In Guatemala boiled, mashed plantains are often stuffed with sweetened black beeans and then deep fried
• Plantains have been called the pasta and potatoes of the Caribbean, so versatile are they in their varied uses
• In parts of the Caribbean plantains are often eaten mashed and served with fried eggs for breakfast
• In the southern United States, particularly along the Gulf of Mexico, plantains are most often grilled
• In Mexico fried plantains are often served alongside scrambled eggs mixed with black beans, as in huevos tirados, a favorite breakfast dish served at San Miguel's wonderful Parroquia Restaurant
• In Peru, plantains are boiled and blended with water and sugar to make the drink called chapo
• Because plantains can be cooked in much the same manner as potatoes, one of my favorite ways to serve them, especially as an accompaniment to one of the Mexican moles, is simply to boil peeled segments of yellow plantains with garlic (or add roasted garlic), mash them and sprinkle with chopped cilantro

Chicken Mofongo

Recipe:  Chicken Mofongo
Chicken Stew with Sweet Palntains)
(Adapted slightly from a Recipe by Melissa Clark and Eric Asimov for The New York Times)

3 pounds chicken parts, skin on

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon chile powder

4 teaspoons kosher salt, more as needed

3 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest, plus the juice of 2 oranges (about 2/3 cup)

1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest, plus the juice of 1/2 lime, more as needed

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

2 large sweet, very ripe plantains (they should be black and yellow), peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch rounds

1 large onion, diced

1 red bell pepper, diced

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes

1/2 cup sliced pitted green olives

Chopped cilantro, for serving

In a small bowl mix the cumin, chile powder, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons oregano, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, the orange zest and lime zest.  Coat chicken with 1 tablespoon oil, rub the spice mixture into the chicken, cover, and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight.

Heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat.  Add chicken pieces, skin side down.  Cook, in batches if necessary, until golden brown all over, about 10 minutes.  Transfer chicken to a bowl.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to pan.  Add plantains in a single layer, working in batches if necessary, and cook until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes per side (add more oil to pan between batches if needed).  Transfer plantains to a bowl.

Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to pan.  Stir in onion, bell pepper, garlic and a pinch of salt.  Cook until vegetables are softened, 7 to 10 minutes.  Add remaining 1 teaspoon oregano and cook 1 minute.

Stir in tomatoes with their juices, orange juice, 1 cup water, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper.  Return chicken and plantains to pot.  Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.  Cover and reduce heat to medium low.  Keep at a steady simmer until chicken is cooked through, about 30 minutes.  Stir in olives and lime juice.  Taste and adjust seasonings, adding more salt or lime juice to taste.  Serve topped with cilantro (and rice!)

Chicken Mofongo

Parting Shot:

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Please ask permission before using text or photos.  Thanks!