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Thursday, September 25, 2014

Tamarind--Facts, Fun, and Recipes

Tamarind--Facts, Fun, and Recipes

by Victoria Challancin

It's all in the name. For me, it's always in the name. Tamarind. Tamar Hindi. Indian Date. Tamarindus indica. And although I have eaten tamarind in various dishes all over Southeast Asia, for me it will ever be dual-linked to the Arab world, where I first really discovered it, and to Mexico, where it flourishes in the cuisine.

Even though I was vaguely aware that tamarind was an ingredient in several popular sauces I used and loved, such as Pick-a-Peppa and Worcestershire (and later HP Sauce), I never really got to know it as an ingredient until I first lived in the Middle East in the mid-seventies. In Abu Dhabi, where I moved in 1975, I encountered tamarind first as a cold drink, delicately flavored with rosewater, offered during Ramadan as a traditional drink. Sour and haunting, the elusive flavor of tamarind was enhanced for me by what was then to me a very exotic ingredient, rosewater. Since that time, both ingredients have found their way over and over in my cooking.

Here is a lovely version of that drink by Sawsan, the exceptional blogger of Chef in Disguise:

Sweet Tamarind Drink

200g package of tamarind

1 liter water

Sugar to taste

Rosewater (optional--but not really, at least to me)

Break apart the tamarind into small segments. Place it in a pot with the water and 2/3 cup of sugar. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then lower the heat and allow to simmer for 5 minutes. Turn off heat and allow to cool for 15 minutes.

Strain the mix through a fabric with fine weave or some coffee filters.

Taste and adjust the sugar to your liking. Cool in the refrigerator. Add a small amount of rosewater just before serving.

This next recipe is one I have used and taught, however I did find one that looks even better, if more complicated on Food and Wine's site: http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/tamarind-margarita

My version is also nice with a bit of fresh ginger and/or some cinnamon added. But that could be gilding the lily!

Margarita making, in my experience, involved tasting and adding, adjusting frequently so you can just the right balance of sweet-sour-tequila. Feel free to tinker with this. I do.

Tamarind Margarita

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin)

Per serving:

Chile-Lime powder to rim the glass (I use Tajin brand)

2 lime wedges (one to moisten the rim of the glass, one for garnish)

2 tablespoons (I like a strong tamarind flavor--use less if you don't)

1 1/2 ounces good-quality tequila

1/2 ounce orange liquor

1/2 ounce simple syrup (use more if you like it sweeter)

Ice

Rim the glass with a lime wedge, cutting a slit in the lime to facilitate the process. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice/ Add all of the ingredients and shake well. Strain into a prepared glass and serve. If you prefer a slushy marg, simple place all of the ingredients in a blender and give it a whirl.

To Prepare Fresh Tamarind

Crack open the tamarind fruit/pod, removing all bits of the brittle covering/ Peel away the stringy fibers. Place the peeled pods, about 2 1/2 cups, in a pot with water to barely cover the fruit. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and allow to simmer for about 10 minutes. Stir to dissolve the pulp. Strain liquid into a bowl by pressing the solid contents through a fine sieve. Use a spoon to scrape all the pulp from the bottom of the sieve--you don't want to miss a drop! Discard the leftover seeds and fibers. Alternatively, the pulp can be soaked in just warm water for about 10 minutes before removing the pulp, though this method is less efficient.

This drawing has been in my files for so long that I no longer where I originally found it.

Later in Mexico, I found tamarind in a special mole from Oaxaca, in various aguas frescas (see my article on Mexican fruit drinks here), in a chicken dish cooked with apricots for a sweet and sour kick, as a glaze for grilled shrimp, as a flavor for a hot corn-based atole drink, and in more recent years it has flourished as a popular margarita flavoring. (see the recipe below) But of course, my most vivid tamarindo moments always involved my child, born and raised in Mexico, who loved (and still does) the popular sweet/sour tamarind candy rolled in chile powder which always tumbled out of the broken piñatas of his younger years. In fact, even when he was 20, I asked what I could bring from Mexico when I visited him in Los Angeles, where he was living: "Pulparindo!" he happily cried. Pulparindo, indeed--his favorite candy from his youth. Of course he also asked for Tajin, a chile-lime powder popular for sprinkling on fruits and even sandwiches made with milanesas of chicken or pork. So I dutifully found the requested items, but in tiny form, so that I could hide them in the pockets of his clothes, in his shoes, under his pillow, basically anywhere I thought it would a fun find for him once I left.

A very small sampling of typical tamarind-chile Mexican sweets called dulces de tamarindo, my favorite being the one served in the ceramic shoe! Note that the little pot of tamarind sweet comes with its own spoon/shovel.

A bag of whole tamarind pods from a local grocery store; in the market it is found loose and in bulk

Mexican Tamarind Martinis with Sour Plums Photograph by Zachary Popovsky

While working with the wonderful Hip Entertainment Group production company in Los Angeles on a FoodNetwork show, I was asked to develop a tamarind martini recipe. Of course I left it to my 20-year-old son, at the time, knowing he would do a great job, a far better job than I, in fact. Here is what Zack created, complete with the tiny sour, salted plums readily found in Mexico. In the end, the main producer decided to feature a tamarind margarita instead...and more's the pity.

Ingredient Note: Saladitos are a common sweet in Mexico, made from dried, salted plums, often with the addition of sugar and anise. Similar to chamoy, a sweet/sour/ chile sweet made from dried apricots and frequently paired with other fruits, saladitos are often sucked on their own or placed at the bottom of a glass filled with a soft drink such as Sprite.

Mexican Tamarind Martinis with Salted Plums

(Recipe by Zachary Popovsky)

Makes 6 servings

12 oz shelled fresh tamarind pods, rinsed with cold water

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup Mexican chile-lime powder (available in Mexican or Latin markets)

1 lime wedge

6 salted plums (available in Mexican or Latin markets)

2 to 2 1/2 cups vodka

Combine the tamarind and 4 cups water in a medium-size heavy saucepan set over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Boil, uncovered, until the tamarind is very soft, about 10 minutes.

Carefully pour the tamarind water into a container and set aside.

Using a potato or bean masher, mash the tamarind with seeds in the saucepan. Return the reserved tamarind water to the saucepan and mix it into the mashed pulp. Strain the mixture into a pitcher, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids.

Stir in 3 cups fresh water to form a fairly concentrated mixture. Add the sugar and stir until it is dissolved. This concentrated mixture can be made up to 2 days in advance and kept refrigerated.

To prepare the martini glasses: Pour several tablespoons of the chile-lime powder onto a flat saucer. Make a gash in the lime wedge, using it to rim the martini glasses with lime juice. Dip the rims of the glasses in the powder, tapping lightly to shake off any excess.

For each martini serving, combine 3/4 cup tamarind concentrate and 1/4 cup vodka in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake vigorously. Strain into a prepared martin glass and serve. Or, for a faster preparation, mix all the tamarind water, all the vodka, and some ice in a large pitcher and pour the mixture into each martini glass.

Tamarind History and a Few Fun Facts:

Botanically speaking, tamarind is native to tropical Africa, but because it is so prevalent in India, many people believe it originated there.
It grows wild in Sudan and can be found in many other African countries as well
Arab traders traded tamarind to India and today, India is the number one producer of tamarind
The Portuguese introduced tamarind to the East Indies
The Spanish traders took tamarind to the Philippines and then to Mexico
Early colonists distributed tamarind throughout the Americas during the 17th century
Although India is the largest commercial cultivator of tamarind today, it is also produced in Mexico, Sudan, Thailand, Taiwan, China, Cameroon, Nigeria and Tanzania
The ancient Egyptians cultivated tamarind
The etymology of the word "tamarind" shows that it comes from the Arabic "tamar," or date, and "hindi," which means "Indian," hence "tamar hindi," or tamarind, Indian date
The tartaric acid, a powerful antioxidant, found in the pulp pairs well with both meat and vegetable dishes
A tamarind tree can grow up to 80n feet in height, making it among the largest of the tropical trees belonging to the Fabaceae family
Each fruit pod has a brittle outer shell which encases the soft, fibrous pulp, and contains up to 10 hard dark-brown seeds
African children often use the seeds from tamarind pods are often used in games
Minerals found in tamarind pulp include: copper, potassium, calcium, iron, selenium, zinc and magnesium
Rich in vitamins, including thiamin, vitamin A, Vitamin C as well as folic acid, niacin, and riboflavin
Tamarind is rich in phytochemicals such as limocen, safrole, and cinnamic acid
Tamarind has beend used as an emulsifying agent in syrups and decoctions in various pharmaceutical products
Fresh tamarind pods are available in late spring and early summer seasons, but process tamarind (i.e. in blocks, slices, paste, concentrates, balls, syrups, etc) are available throughout the year
In India, a special wooken stick is kept in the kitchen for the purpose of beating the pulp to remove the seeds
Tamarind blends well with other flavors; one popular drink blends the pulp with dates, sugar or honey, cardamom, cloves, and coriander seeds
Tamarind pulp is also sued as a solidifying agent in confectionaries
Tamarind has no known reported cases of allergic or toxicity
Eye drops exist that are made from tamarind seeds to ease dry eye syndrome (the seeds contain polysaccharide, which is adhesive and sticks to the surface of the eye for longer durations compared to other eye meds)
To alleviate biliousness and bile conditions, tamarind juice is drunk with lemon, milk, honey and dates
Combining the seeds with equal portions of cumin and sugar is a cure for dysentery, as is tamarind milk
Tamarind has even been used to combat body odor!

Health Benefits:

Because of the refrigerant properties of tamarind, it makes a good drink for anyone suffering from fever
Tamarind is packed with vitamin B and calcium
Tamarind is also slightly laxative
The sticky pulp is a rich source of non-starch fiber which increases the bulk of food and augments bowel movements
The fiber found in tamarind binds to toxins, thus helping to protect the colon mucus membrane from cancer-causing chemicals
The fibers in the pulp also bind to bile salts, which helps protect from cholesterol and aids in the expulsion of LDL cholesterol levels from the body
As with all ancient foods, tamarind has a long history of medicinal uses which range from easing stomach discomfort, aiding digestion, treating fevers, and use a a laxative
Sore throat, rheumatism, inflammation, and sunstroke have all been treated with tamarind
Dried or boiled leaves and flowers have been commonly used as poultices for swollen joints, sprains, boils, hemorrhoids, and conjunctivitis
Tamarind is best avoided by those who have diabetes as it is high in sugar
A brief breakdown in tamarind's health benefits shows that its vitamin B content aids the nervous system; its magnesium helps keep the bones strong; because if its high source of fiber, it helps overcome constipation and aids digestion; its high levels of potassium helps control blood pressure; its high iron content helps prevent anemia; the thiamin and niacin found in tamarind help control cholesterol levels; the riboflavin content of tamarind helps release energy from carbohydrates; rich in calcium, tamarind helps the process of blood clotting (with vitamin K);
the vitamin C found in tamarind helps maintain healthy teeth and gums; and among all the fruits and vegetables, tamarind is the highest source of protein, which can help produce antibodies that fight viruses and bacteria

Global Uses of Tamarind:

In Ghana, it is used to make a poisonous yam palatable and safe
In India it often appears in chutneys, curries (particularly vindaloo curries), rassams, and sauces and is used in ayurvedic medicine as a digestive, laxative, tonic, anthelminthic, antipyretic, and astringent, plus as a treatment for sore throat, urinary problems, some venereal diseases, ulcers, liver disease, and more
In Guadeloupe it is often found in jams and syrups
In Java, tamarind often livens up fish
Throughout Southeast Asia tamarind appears on the table in a variety of dishes from condiments to drinks to main-dish sauces, especially in Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and the Philippines
In the Philippines tamarind can be found in several soups and candies; the leaves are also popular as a soup ingredient
In Thailand a special cultivar has been developed to yield a fresh fruit that is sweeter and less sour than is usual
In Thailand, it also often is eaten in a sour curry and of course, no self-respecting Pad Thai dish would be authentic without it!
In Mexico it is used in sauces, snacks, and sweets--almost always paired with chiles
Balls of tamarind pulp (see photo above) rolled in chile are common in Jamaica, Grenada, Trinidad and Tobago, Colombia, and particularly Mexico, where it flourishes (it is also found in other Latin American countries to a lesser degree)
Throughout Africa it is a common food plant used to boost nutrition
In Nigeria a breakfast porridge is made of tamarind and millet powder to be eaten with bean cakes
In southern Kenya along the coast, tamarind is used to garnish beans and legumes and also to make juices
In Myanmar, young, tender leaves and flower buds are eaten as a vegetable
In Myanmar, the leaves are often made into a salad with boiled beans, peanuts, and fried onions
In the Chinese province of Yunnan, tamarind is used in jams and chilled drinks
In Lebanon a commercial tamarind soft drink is sold
Throughout the Middle East and Iran, tamarind is used in savory meat stews, often combined with other fruits
In Turkey tamarind is consumed as a cold drink
Tamarind leaves make up about 50% of the food source for ring-tailed lemurs in Madagascar
Throughout Southeast Asia, tamarind is used as a poultice for fever
The dense and durable wood of the tamarind tree has a strong red color, making it popular for furniture making and hard wood flooring
Tamarind concentrate can also be sued to remove the tarnish from brass and copper

(Thank you, Wikipedia, for much of this)

Parting Shot: Rain Buddha

Photo taken by my dear friend Tom in his garden here in San Miguel

Flavors of the Sun Cooking School and Travel

San Miguel de Allende,

México

Friday, July 18, 2014

Moroccan-Inspired Chicken Patties with Date Confit--and More Photos from Morocco

Moroccan-Inspired Chicken Patties with Date Confit

Moroccan-Inspired Chicken Patties with Date Confit--and More Photos from Morocco

by Victoria Challancin

No one has said it better than food maven Paula Wolfert, who wrote so thoroughly and so lovingly about Morocco and its heady cuisine. To paraphrase her, Moroccan food is spicy, but not really piquant. If you want chile heat, you simply provide the rich condiment called harissa (see my recipe and article here) at the table, to be passed separately so that diners can add the piquancy they want. But the actual use of spices in Moroccan cuisine is always judicious, as if each cook knows just the perfect amount of each spice required to enhance her dish, without ever overwhelming the whole, without ever allowing one note to dominate the harmonious union of the seductive blend of ingredients.

Although you might never find this particular dish in Morocco, the flavors are true to the cuisine, resulting in a rich, thoroughly modern interpretation of Moroccan flavors. Using a spice blend called ras el hanout to enliven the chicken patty and a pomegrante molasses-rich confit of dates to round out the flavors, this recipe is a wonderful way to experience the flavors of Morocco.

Cook's Notes: This is such a lovely recipe as written that I don't think I even tampered with it, a rare thing for me. And if you are lucky enough to have leftovers of this dish, the taste just improves the next day. My sister-in-law made these for a party appetizer and served them with my Chermoula Sauce (see my recipe here and lots of ideas for how to use it here), which also worked beautifully. Lovely flavors. Did I skip the cucumber and onion relish? I can't imagine that I did, but then, I don't see it anywhere. Just cilantro leaves. Yikes!

Recipe: Moroccan-Inspired Chicken Patties with Date Confit

(Recipe by British Chef Emma MacDonald from The Artisan Market)

Serves 4 as a light meal and up to 12 as an hors d'oeuvres

For the chicken patties:

1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (I purchase pre-ground)

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1-inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and grated

2 teaspoons Ras el Hanout (see my recipe here)

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon light brown sugar

For serving:

16 small hearts of lettuce leaves

4-inch piece English cucumber, quartered lengthwise, seeded and diced

1 small red onion, finely chopped

1 handful cilantro leaves

For the date confit:

20 ready-to-eat pitted dates, halved (use Medjool, if possible)

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 shallots, chopped

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 Thai (or serrano) chile, finely chopped

1 teaspoon light brown sugar

2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the date confit:

Put the dates in a bowl, cover with just-boiled water and leave for 1 hour. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a skillet and fry the shallots, covered, for 20 to 25 minutes or until very soft.

Drain the dates and add them to the pan, squashing them with the back of a fork to break them down. Stir in 4 tablespoons water, the cinnamon, chile and sugar and cook for 5 minutes longer, or until it forms a thick jam consistency. Add more water if it is too thick. Stir in the pomegranate molasses and season to taste with salt and pepper. You can blend the mixture if you prefer a smoother consistency. Spoon the confit into a serving bowl and allow to cool.

To make the chicken patties:

Heat the oven to 100 degrees. Grind the chicken in a food processor (or use pre-ground, as I did), then stir in the garlic, ginger, and ras el hanout. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Form the chicken mixture into 16 equal balls, about the size of golf balls. Flatten each one to make a little patty.

Heat two-thirds of the oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Fry the patties, in two or three batches, if necessary, for 3 minutes on each side. Just before they finish cooking on each side, sprinkle with a little sugar and cook until slightly caramelized. Drain on paper towels and keep warm in the low oven while you cook the remaining patties, adding more oil as necessary.

For serving:

Put a chicken patty on top of each lettuce leaf, scatter a little cucumber, red onion and cilantro over and top with a spoonful of the date confit. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Moroccan-Inspired Chicken Patties with Date Confit

More Images from my Moroccan Trip in April 2014:

Like what you see? Why not join me in either October of 2014 or April of 2015 on my next tours of Morocco--beautiful, seductive Morocco.

Victoria Challancin

Flavors of the Sun Cooking School and Trips

San Miguel de Allende,

México

Friday, July 19, 2013

Quanto Basta and Italian Chicken with Pine Nut Gremolata on a Bed of Peperonata

Italian Chicken with Pine Nut Gremolata on a Bed of Peperonata

Quanto Basta and Italian Chicken with Pine Nut Gremolata on a Bed of Peperonata

by Victoria Challancin

In Spanish we say "al gusto," in French it is "au goût," but in Italian, it just rolls off the tongue with a rippling "quanto basta," or "qb" for short. Basically, it just means "to taste," or more poetically, "as much as is needed." Once you are confident using your ingredients, then you simply add whatever is needed in whatever quantity works for you. How simple is that? And that probably sums up the way most of us cook, unless we are baking perhaps.

When I teach my classes designed to teach Mexican cooks who mainly work for foreigners to cook international food, I can't just say to them the equivalent of "qb." I have to provide a recipe with exact quantities, which I often find online simply because it is so easy to do so. Once they understand the ingredients, then they can add their own "toque mágico," or magic touch. Recently for just such a class I chose an Italian Chicken with Pine Nut Gremolata which I paired with Peperonata. The basic preparation of the chicken in this dish comes from betterrecipes.com, but the peperonata comes from my heart. QB.

What exactly is peperonata? It is a simple, rustic dish probably of Sicilian origin, eaten with bread as a way to use local, readily available ingredients. Call it a stew, a side dish, a pasta sauce, or whatever you like, it remains a staple in Italian cooking. Its versatility knows no bounds as you can add or subtract to it endless. QB. I chose it as a base for a simply prepared chicken which is topped with gremolata, the lively traditional condiment which always accompanies osso bucco. Gremolata is another of those "qb" recipes which adds a fillip of flavor to practically anything. For example, I used it in the following:

Gremolata is extremely versatile and can be made with different types of citrus. Just make sure you add some raw garlic, zest, and a chopped fresh herb such as parsley, basil, or mint. The pungency of the garlic lightened with the brightness of the citrus and rounded out with the freshness of the herb combine to make a condiment which enlivens anything from chicken to fish to vegetables of all sorts. And it is easy to make. QB, of course.

Italian Chicken with Pine Nut Gremolata on a Bed of Peperonata

Cook's Notes: While the original recipe placed the chickens atop tapenade, I decided to make a peperonata using the beautiful local bell peppers that are so abundant here in San Miguel. It worked beautifully, but so would have the tapenade! This pretty dish was simple to prepare, full of flavor and Mediterranean bounty.

Recipe: Italian Chicken with Pine Nut Gremolata on a bed of Peperonata
(Recipe adapted from betterrecipes.com)

4 boneless skinless chicken breasts halves

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 teaspoon Italian seasoning (Italian herb mix--or use a bit each of dried oregano, marjoram, thyme, and rosemary)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Peperonata (see the following recipe)

2 plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped

Juice and grated zest of 1 fresh lemon

1/4 cup chopped green onions

1/2 cup julienned fresh basil, divided

1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

Optional garnishes: Additional basil, green onions, tomato and lemon slices

Brush chicken with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, sprinkle with the dried herbs, salt, and pepper, coating all sides evenly. Add remaining olive oil to a large skillet placed over medium heat. When hot, add the chicken and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through, turning to brown both sides evenly. Remove chicken from pan, keeping warm.

In the same skillet (do not wash skillet) add the prepared peperonata and stir occasionally over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Toss together pine nuts, lemon zest and basil in a separate bowl, then reserve. Slice each chicken breast crosswise into thick slices. Arrange attractively on serving platter or individual plates atop the peperonata. Sprinkle with the pine nut mixture and serve immediately. May be garnished with additional fresh basil, green onions, tomato and lemon slices, if desired--but it could be gilding the lily!

Peperonata

Cook's Notes: This is such a flexible recipe that you can change it easily to suit your taste--I doubt I ever make it the same way, but because I had to write a proper recipe for the cooks, I wrote down one way I like to prepare this dish. Basically, you use these simple ingredients in the amounts you want--quanto basta, in Italian--as much as is necessary. Dry? Add more oil. Bland? Add more garlic (my answer to everything). Extra kick required? Add more chile flakes and more black olives. Other ingredients you might consider adding: chopped dried figs, potatoes (Marcela Hazan does this!), extra dried oregano or rosemary, bay leaves, parsley, use all fresh herbs instead of dried, mushrooms, eggplant (very common), capers, sliced fennel bulb, However you serve it, do serve it room temperature!

Other Uses for Peperonata

Put it atop crostini with or without cheese
Use it as a vegetable side or vegetarian main dish with a creamy polenta
Add it to an omelet
Mix it with other cooked vegetables such as green beans, potatoes, cauliflower, asparragus
Use it as a filling for crepes with cheese
Use it as a pasta sauce
Top it with cheese and coarse bread crumbs, bake it, and call it a "casserole!"
Serve it simply with just some good crusty bread, as Italians often do
Put it on a green salad
Mascarpone or crème fraîche make a nice addition if using it as a pasta sauce
Add it to cooked Italian sausages
Make a sandwich using peperonata and whatever other ingredients you want: tuna, salami, basil, cheese, sliced turkey, bacon
Serve it with steak
Of course, peperonata goes perfectly on any antipasto plate
Serve it with grilled or baked fish
Mix it into a bowl of cooked white beans
Use it to stuff crimini or portobello mushrooms topped with melted cheese
My friend Oscar places it in foil with a piece of fish on top and bakes it, which sounds lovely to me!

Recipe: Peperonata

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin)

Serves 6 to 8

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 red onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

5 to 6 bell peppers, mixed colors, in strips or 1/2-inch cubes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 can cubed tomatoes with juice (of course you can use fresh if they are nice!)

Large pinch of chile flakes (optional)

1 teaspoon dried Italian herbs, crumbled

1/4 cup Kalamata olives, pitted and cut in half

alsamic or red wine vinegar to taste, 1 to 2 tablespoons

1/4 cup raisins (optional)

3 tablespoons chopped parsley or basil in chiffonade, or a combination of both

Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions; cook stirring for 7 to 8 minutes or until soft. Add garlic, stir, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the peppers, salt, and pepper. Stir, cover, and cook until soft, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add tomatoes, chile flakes, dried herbs, olives, raisins, and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Chef for seasoning, adding more vinegar if necessary. Garnish with parsley and/or basil. Serve room temperature--or slightly warm.

Parting Shot: Berber Spices, Marrakech:

Like life and love, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using text or photos. Thanks!

Monday, May 27, 2013

Moroccan Textures and a Recipe

Beet Hummus with Black Tahini and Cinnamon-Pear Balsamic Vinegar

Moroccan Textures and a Recipe for Beet Hummus with Black Tahini and Cinnamon-Pear Balsamic Vinegar

by Victoria Challancin

Note: If you would like to be on my mailing list for information about my next Moroccan tour, email me at flavorsofthesun@gmail.com. Thanks!

Making black tahini in the blender

For a dinner I made on Friday for visiting friends, I featured 9 Moroccan salads, including this interloper: beet hummus. While not Moroccan at all, it blended with the other flavors beautifully, making it a perfect addition to the general panoply of dishes featuring a small portion of the myriad salads found on the Moroccan table (more on this soon, I promise). This dish was a stand-out and a favorite with everyone.

I first encountered a recipe for beet hummus on Serious Eats. Intrigued with a recipe that included three of my favorite ingredients, beets, chickpeas, and tahini, I knew I had to try it. When I discovered that it included black tahini, something totally new to me, the deal was clinched. Having just purchased a wickedly delicious cinnamon-pear balsamic vinegar from San Miguel's Olio Fino, which features olive oils and balsamic vinegars with staggeringly fascinating flavors, I thought it would be a perfect addition to the hummus, and it was! Utterly delicious... Also, for more information on hummus, check out the post where I explain in depth the mystery of this oft-maligned and misused term (it includes a great recipe for a hummus platter as well).

When a special friend requested that I post this recipe as the first of many from Moroccan menu, how could I resist? For you, E.

Recipe: Black Tahini

(Recipe adapted from Serious Eats)

Cook's Notes: The original recipe calls for 1 cup black sesame seeds to 2 tablespoons oil. I found that the seeds I used required at least double the amount of oil plus a good pinch of kosher salt to give it the taste I was looking for. This is truly a recipe that requires tweaking. Because the seeds are black, you have to rely on your ose to tell when the seeds are sufficiently toasted, but it should only take about one minute.

1 cup black sesame seeds
3 to 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
A large pinch of kosher salt

Place the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat. Toast, stirring constantly until fragrant, being careful not to burn them.

Transfer the sesame seeds to a blender. Begin with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, adding it slowly. Add additional olive oil until you have the desired consistency, which is thick and creamy. Add salt and blend again. Adjust, adding more oil or salt, as required.

Recipe: Beet Hummus with Cinnamon-Pear Balsamic Vinegar

(Recipe adapted from Serious Eats)

Cook's Notes: I used a delicious specialty balsamic vinegar, though regular would work fine. Fig balsamic would also be particularly nice. Looking for a sharp spicy hummus, I umphed the amount of tahini, garlic cumin as well, but this is completely a matter of taste. I also boiled the beets due to time, but roasting would yield a more complex flavor. As with the black tahini recipe itself, this one requires tweaking until you are happy with the balance of flavors. Even with the additional amounts I used, this dish was surprisingly mellow and gently flavored. Check the original recipe for a starting place and then play with it, as I did.

4 medium beets ( about 1 lb), cooked, peeled, and cubed

1 (15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and ground
2 tablespoons black tahini (or substitute regular tahini)

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons Cinnamon-Pear Balsamic Vinegar or other balsamic viengar

1 large garlic clove, minced or pressed

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional as needed

Kosher salt to taste

Mint or chopped parsley to garnish

Place beets, chickpeas, cumin, tahini, lemon juice, vinegar, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth. With machine running, slowly drizzle in olive oil, additional oil if needed. Season with salt to taste. Serve, drizzling with extra olive oil and a mint sprig or chopped parsley.

Serve with crusty bread, pita, or pita chips.

Moroccan Textures:

Morocco is truly a marvel at every conceivable level: the gentle people, the rich culture, the food (OMG, the food), the colors, the smells, the textures. Endlessly varied, it is an assault to the senses everywhere you turn. In my last post I offered you a few colors...today I give you textures...and for even more reasons why I visit Morocco every year, please check out my summary here.

Bronze doors on the royal palace in Fès

A polished ammonite fossil, approximately 18-inches wide, from Erfoud

Fishing boats and nets, Essaouira

A tagine decorated with corral and hennaed camel bone

A tea-seller's hat, Marrakech

Snails, ready to be dropped into rich anis-scented broth

A hammered tin container (for bread?) in front of zellij tilework (terra cotta tiles covered with enamel and set into plaster--these are several hundred years old) from our riad in Fès