Salade Niçoise--Controversial?

        Photo by Zachary Popovsky                                   

Salade Niçoise--Controversial?

by Victoria Challancin

The French argue about it.  Of course they do.  Mais oui! And what is there about a simple salad that could possibly be controversial, you ask?  Oh, silly toi.  There are legions of possibilities here...layers of multifarious argument to be had...myriad variétés of regional differences to be dissected...countless hours to be spent at the table, under the sun, sipping wine, and deciding who, exactly, is correct concerning the proper way to prepare a Salade Niçoise?  How could one person be right about the preparation of this bright Mediterranean salad and others wrong, you timidly suggest?  If you have to ask that, you clearly don't understand the French.  Clearly.

Definition:  Niçoise is the French adjective for "of Nice"--the French city which lies on the Mediterranean and within the region of Provence, and only 15 miles from Italy.  Salade...well, obviously salade means "salad."  Combined, they refer to a salad based on green beans, tomatoes, hard-cooked eggs, anchovies, ripe olives, tuna, and a vinaigrette redolent of garlic and possibly basil.
Quintessential Provençal ingredients, right?  It should be simple, but of course, it is not.  Mais non!

Julia Child was almost single-handedly responsible for translating this delightful, sprightly dish to the American table.  Perhaps from there or on its own volition, it spread everywhere, with variations naturally springing forth from individual interpretations.  Of course, in spite of its global popularity, the French would argue the vérité, the authenticity of other versions.  Even amongst themselves, village to village.

So controversial is the subject, the city of Nice's former mayor, Jacques Médecin (according to Felicity Cloake in an article on the infamous salad for the UK's The Guardian), took "time out from sympathising with the Front National to write a Niçoise cookbook, in part...inspired by the horrific experience, 'all around the world' of seeing the remains of other people's meals being served under the name salade niçoise."   

So what, exactly, is at the root of this controversy?  Many French people debate the issue of cooked vs. raw vegetables.  Many say that salade Niçoise "ne contient pas de légumes cuits."  That is to say that a salade Niçoise contains no cooked vegetables.  And if it does include cooked vegetables, then it should never include cooked potatoes, which some consider NOT to be a typical Mediterranean ingredient.  And the argument deepens.  Others contend that it should never, ever contain lettuce. However, tomatoes (vine-ripened, of course), black olives (preferably Cailletier olives, which grow near Nice), tuna (canned in oil or fresh), anchovies, and hard-cooked eggs seem to be suitable to all. Nay, "required" by all.  And please, don't get me started on the vinaigrette...

Variations:

Research and common sense tell me that there are as many versions and variations of this salad as there are villages dotting the mountains of Provence.  "Market-fresh" ingredients are what is important here. Having said that, I give you some of the variations I stumbled upon, each of which is considered completely authentic by someone who considers himself undeniably French and entitled to his take on the beloved salad:

• Baby artichoke hearts find their way into the salad in the spring
• If fresh baby artichokes aren't available, canned ones would be an option
• Fava beans, instead of green beans, also make an appearance in the spring
• Capers can be strewn over the salad
• Basil can be added to either the vinaigrette or leaves tossed on the salad
• Lettuce can form the base of the salad, or not
• Cucumbers can be added, and often are, particularly by the Brits
• Red bell peppers might be used
• Young radishes often appear
• Shallots or even green onions could be added--but red onion is even nicer

 Photo by Zachary Popovsky      

As for me, how many sins did I commit in my tasty version?  Oh, many.  I used cooked beans and potatoes.  My tuna, which I had on hand, was packed in water.  Gasp!  I concede, however, that oil-packed is better in this salad...but I am not one to waste.  Anchovies?  OMG.  This is truly an omission.  I had thought I had some in the fridge, but it turned out that I only had anchovy paste, which I added to the vinaigrette.  So take me to the guillotine.  I goofed at many levels, but still, this salad just dazzles, even in my humble version, with its bright, crisp flavors and simple presentation.  And basically, my half-Italian/French self says, "Do what pleases you.  Add the ingredients you like; omit the ones you don't.  But do strive for garden- or market-fresh produce if possible."

 Photo by Zachary Popovsky                        

Recipe:  Salade Niçoise

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin)

Serves 6

The salad:

3/4 to 1 pound baby potatoes, cooked and halved

1 pound green beans (preferable the skinny French type called haricots verts), steamed until crisp-tender

4 ripe plum tomatoes, cut into eighths

3 hard-cooked eggs, sliced or quartered

1/2 cup imported black olives

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

1 (6-ounce) can tuna, packed in water or oil, as preferred, drained and flaked

Fresh basil, for garnish

The vinaigrette:

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (or 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar)

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 garlic clove, minced or pressed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black mustard to taste

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, (or use the proportion you prefer)

In a bowl whisk together the lemon juice, mustard, garlic, salt, and pepper.  Drizzle in the olive oil, whisking to emulsify.  Check and adjust seasoning to taste.

In a large bowl, toss the cooked potatoes with a little vinaigrette to coat.  Transfer to a large platter.

In the same bowl, toss the cooked green beans with a little vinaigrette to coat.  Transfer to the platter with the beans.

In the same bowl, toss the tomatoes with a little vinaigrette to coat.  Transfer to the platter with the other vegetables.

Arrange the remaining salad ingredients on the platter.  Drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette.

Garnish with basil.  Serve with a crusty bread and let the controversy unfold.

Note:  I am adding an optional week in Paris to my yearly trip to Morocco.  For more information on either or both trips, contact me at flavorsofthesun@gmail.com.  These are cultural trips, not specifically culinary.

Parting Shot:  A Window in Paris

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Please ask permissions before using text or photos.  Thanks!