Blueberry-Watermelon Gazpacho and the History of Soup

 The garnishes for the Blueberry-Watermelon Gazpacho, minus the avocado, which I forgot to cut!

Blueberry-Watermelon Gazpacho and Some History of Soup!

by Victoria Challancin

I did it.  I caved in.  I knuckled.  I just gave up.  I tried to stop being a food snob, and I almost succeeded.  Remember when I whinged about people calling just any purée of vegetables a "hummus"?  Even if it didn't have chickpeas, which are actually the word for "hummus" in Arabic, in the dish...Well, I confess to feeling the same way about "gazpacho."  Gazpacho isn't just any old cold soup with chopped ingredients in it.  Gazpacho is special.  It is quintessentially Spanish.  It is heavenly in hot weather.  It is a peasant dish.  It is not chopped watermelon and blueberries.  Now that I have vented sufficiently on that subject, I want to tell you that whatever you call this soup, it is wonderful!  Don't let the name throw you--you will want to make this delightful soup a regular on your summer table.  (Apologies to all my dear readers from the Southern Hemisphere--I just ask that you tag it for your warm weather and promise you won't be disappointed!).

I wrote a lot about the history of soup in general, and gazpacho specifically here, where I made a two-tone soup with tomato gazpacho and tzatziki, one of my favorite yogurt dishes.  At the risk of committing one of the cardinal rules of blogging, never repeat a post, I am going to repeat what I said about soup and gazpacho just because if you missed it, you might find it interesting.  Or am I projecting?  I always find food history interesting.

Soup:  A Bit of History

Tracing the history of soup is probably impossible since cooking meats or vegetables in water or broth has been around for about 8000 years, or as long as man has cooked in waterproof vessels.  Cold soups, are obviously newer, but equally difficult to pinpoint on a culinary timeline.  We do know that many countries have had examples of cold soups that have been around for a very long time and are considered national classics:  In Scandinavia, cold fruit soups are popular; in Russia cold borscht is perhaps even more popular cold than hot; the Danes love versions of buttermilk-based cold soups; the cold version of gazpacho is loved in many forms throughout Spain (thought it was born in Andalucia, as is shown by the Arabic roots of the word "Gazpacho"); Greeks positively shine with their chilled avgolemono soup, bright with the flavor of lemons; and let us never forget that sultry French bowl o cold potato and leek lusciousness, vichyssoise.

Looking at the etymology of the word "soup," we see that it based on a post-classical Latin verb suppare, which means "to soak," which was borrowed in turn from a German root sup-.  From these words grew the Old French soupe, which originally referred to either a piece of bread soaked in liquid or a broth poured onto bread.  In the 17th century, the word entered English where it referred to a broth or pottage.  It wasn't until the 18th century that the idea of soup as a first course to be served with the meat or vegetable dish really came into being.  Today we accept that soup can be a first course entry to a meal or a meal in itself.  Sweet, savory, hot, cold, thick, thin, however we choose to enjoy it, soup is an indispensable part of our global culinary world.

As all recipe ideas grow and change, so do those for soup.  Specifically, cold soups can be sweet or savory and can be used as a starter or even as a dessert.

Gazpacho, traditionally served cold, is basically a tomato-based, raw vegetable soup, rather like a liquid salad.  White gazpacho, on the other hand, usually contains grapes, garlic, and almonds.  Although there are numerous regional versions of gazpacho in Spain, most food historians agree that it has been around in the Iberian Peninsula since at least Roman times.  Based on tomatoes, bread, water, vinegar, oil, and salt, gazpacho was sustenance to the peasants, particularly shepherds, in the south of Spain.  Variations abound.  But they might not include this Blueberry-Watermelon version.  ;-)

The Gazpacho in three different serving vessels

The bright colors in full sunlight

Cook's Notes:  Because the acid seemed too strong, I added an extra cup of watermelonto balance the flavors, which worked perfectly.  I would start with 2 tablespoons of vinegar (I used red wine vinegar), adding more as required.  I used cilantro simply because I let my Mexican students choose the herb they wanted; although we had all three, of course they chose cilantro, which worked beautifully, as would basil or mint.  And although I did have a ripe avocado ready to chop, because I waited for the last minute to chop it to avoid browning, I completely forgot it!  But it would make a nice addition to the already beautiful garnishes.

Recipe:  Blueberry-Watermelon Gazpacho

(Adapted very slightly from a Recipe by Ingrid Hoffmann from the Huffington Post)

6 cups watermelon, 5 cups in chunks without seeds, 1 cup cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 1/2 cups fresh blueberries, 1 cup lightly chopped, 1/2 cup left whole

1 medium cucumber peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 tablespoons to 1/3 cup red wine or fruit-infused vinegar

1/2 cup cilantro, basil, or mint leaves, chopped

1 small jalapeño, seeded and minced

1/2 medium red onion, chopped

1/2 medium yellow bell pepper, seeded and chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 ripe Hass avocado, peeled and cut into slivers

Set aside a cup of diced watermelon, a cup of blueberries (some whole, some chopped), half of the cucumber, the red onion, cilantro, jalapeño, and yellow bell pepper for garnish.

Purée 5 cups of watermelon, the remaining blueberries and cucumber with the vinegar in a blender or food processor.

Pour the blended mixture into a bowl.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.  Cover and refrigerate until well-chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 5 hours.  Ladle into bowls and serve with the garnishes, allowing each guest to create his or her own dish.

Note:  The original recipe calls for blending all but one cup of the watermelon, half of the blueberries, and half of the cucumber, adding the remainder to the soup.  In this version, only the cilantro, onion, yellow pepper, jalapeño, and avocado are used as a garnish.  It's basically the same thing, I just like looking at all the lovely colors on the garnish plate!

You might like some of these cold soups I have posted in the past:

Pineapple Gazpacho (tangy, fast, delightful)

Moroccan Gazpacho (cool, easy, exotic, and soooo delicious)

Tomatillo Gazpoacho with Feta-Olive Relish (unusual, snappy)

Chilled Gazpacho and Tzatziki Soups (a two-toned beauty)

Chilled Melon, Cucubmer, and Coconut Milk Soup (a nice variation with coconut milk)

Chilled Roasted Yellow Pepper-Mango Soup (proof that you can never use too many mangoes)

Chilled Zucchini Soup with Purslane (a little different--and so lovely)

Okroshka:  Russian Cold Yogut Soup (probably my favorite!)

Parting Shot:  Essaouira, Morocco

Cats...always comfortable

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Like life and love, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using photos and text.  Thanks!

Cantaloupe-Yogurt Soup with Ginger, Lime, and Mint

Oops!  I may have sent this one twice!  Sorry!

Cantaloupe-Yogurt Soup with Ginger, Lime, and Mint

by Victoria Challancin

The weather is hot.  The rains have not yet really started.  Life is languid.  All of these factors come together to scream, "Give me cool, refreshing, light food!  Now!"  And so I did, yesterday in class.

On Wednesday, I started a new eight-week cooking course designed for Mexican cooks who mainly work for foreigners and who want to learn international cooking.  Aside from gazpacho, cold soups don't really figure into the cooking repertoire of most of my students, which is why it is such fun to introduce them to something new.  And easy.

This soup, which some could argue would easily work as a morning smoothie, comes together in a snap.  Toss the ingredients into the blender, whir it around, check and adjust flavors, and there you have it:  a perfect entry into a warm-weather meal.  Or savor it as a perfect breakfast smoothie--that works equally well.

While scrolling around looking for the perfect chilled soup, I thought to check the Soup Chick's blog, where I often find inspiration.  This melon soup was perfect.  Now that the summery fruits are starting to come into the markets, I knew I could find good melons, and the rest I already had in my pantry or my garden.

Cook's Notes:  When my students asked if they could use other ingredients, I told them that honeydew or other orange or green melons would work well, as would mango or pineapple, or any combination. I did grate fresh ginger into the soup instead of using dried, simply because I love the flavor.  This soup was a definite hit!  I have written the soup as the Soup Chick gave it, with ingredients to serve two.  We used 2 melons and were thus able to triple the recipe.

Recipe:  Cantaloupe-Yogurt Soup with Ginger, Lime, and Mint

(Recipe from soupchick.com)

Serves 2

3 cups cubed melon

1/4 cup plain Greek yogurt or regular plain yogurt

1/8 teaspoon ground powdered ginger (I used 1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger for 2 servings)

Zest of one lime

Juice of 1/2 lime (I added more)

1 teaspoon agave nectar or honey

2 to 3 mint leaves (I used 9 for the tripled recipe)

2 to 3 basil leaves (I used 9 for the tripled recipe)

A pinch of kosher salt

2 to 3 tablespoons water if needed to thin the soup to desired consistency

Combine all ingredients except water in a blender, and puree until smooth.  Adjust consistency with water if needed.  Check and adjust seasoning to taste, adding more ginger, herbs, lime juice, and/or honey to suit your taste.  Serve chilled.

Melon History and Trivia

What's not to love about melons?  They are cooling, refreshing, juicy, and delicious--and available all year long, though they are clearly at their peak in summer.  As a child I thrilled to pick watermelons straight from my Grandpa's melon patch in Georgia.  And later in Florida, even as a teenager, I delighted to use them as a float  as we cooled them in the lake where I grew up before sitting on the dock to eat them with the juices running down our arms.  But then, as a young adult, I stumbled onto an expanded world of melons far beyond the three types I grew up with (watermelon, cantaloupe, and honeydew) when I traveled through specifically Iran and Afghanistan, where the varieties dazzled.  Or perhaps it was just the cooling welcomeness in searing heat.  Whatever, I still have an image fixed forever etched in my brain of a young donkey running in circles in a melon patch in southern Iran--as if he knew the delight of the fruit himself, as if he didn't know he would grow up to be a beast of burden.

A Few Melon Facts:

• Melons belong to the Cucurbitaceae family, which includes gourds, cucumbers, and squashes
• Botanically speaking, a melon is technically a berry
• The word "melon" derives from the Latin melopepo, which comes from the Greek for "melon"
• Originally melons came from Africa and southwest Asia, but by the end of the Roman Empire, they had appeared in Europe
• In ancient China, archaeological data suggest that melons have been cultivated for over 5000 years
• Spain introduced cucumbers, watermelons, and melons to the New World, though other cucurbits existed there already
• The ancient Egyptians and Greeks also grew melons
• The papaya, native to the Americas, is a type of melon
• The cantaloupe has its origins in Persia and the neighboring Caucasian region
• The cantaloupe, which was popular in ancient Rome, was first brought to Rome from Armenia in the 16th century (other melons existed there earlier than this)
• The netted species of cantaloupe probably originated in Persia
• Melons are rich in water, sugars, and fiber
• Melons have a slightly laxative effect because of the fibers they contain
• Melons are an excellent tonic for circulation and useful in the control of blood pressure
• Melons are rich in vitamins A and C
• Because of their high sugar content, melons aren't suitable for diabetics
• Melons are very hydrating and quench thirst
• A mask of melon flesh can be used for sunburn as the flesh will absorb heat from the skin
• It is best not to store melons in the refrigerator, but rather keep it in a cool, dry place
• In the past melons were eaten as a vegetable with salt and pepper (and I still love them this way!)
• Early explorers used watermelons as canteens
• Every part of a watermelon is edible, even the seeds and rinds
• Some clame that the cantaloupe is named after a village in southern France, others say it comes from Cantalupo, Italy
• Egyptian hieroglyphics feature melons as early as 2400 B.C.
• During the Civil War, Confederate soldiers boiled down watermelons to produce sugar and molasses
• Watermelon seeds can be roasted and eaten as a snack
• Ancient Egyptians so revered watermelons that they were often placed in the tombs of kings
• In Japan they have square watermelons
• It takes about 10 to 15 visits by bees to pollinate melons
• Cantaloupes do not ripen after being picked
• Cantaloupes are called "rockmelons" in Australia and often called "musk melons" in the U.S.
• I posted here a recipe for making an agua fresca, or fresh fruit drink, using only the seeds of cantaloupes

This Cantaloupe-Yogurt Soup is my entry for the inspiring and fabulous Nancy Lopez's YBR event for the month of June.

Parting Shot:  A Moroccan Door

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Like life and love, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using photos or text.  Thanks!

Pineapple Gazpacho

 Pineapple Gazpacho

Pineapple Gazpacho

by Victoria Challancin

If I take exception to all sorts of vegetable spreads being called "hummus" when they contain no chickpeas (remember:  hummus simply means "chickpea" in Arabic), then surely I should not allow myself to call this delicious summer soup "gazpacho" simply because it is served chilled with some garnishes.  Yet, I do.  I'll rely on Ralph Waldo Emerson's quote "A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds..." as my excuse.

I love to serve chilled soups when the weather is hot here in Mexico.  First of all, we have a glorious array of fresh fruits and vegetables available year round.  Secondly, they are just pretty to serve and tasty as well.

I wrote about the history of Spain's famed gazpachos here, and have offered several cold soups, both savory and sweet in the following posts:

• Moroccan Gazpacho (cool, easy, exotic, and soooo delicious)
• Chilled Gazpacho and Tzatziki Soups (a two-toned beauty)
• Tomatillo Gazpacho with Feta-Olive Relish (unusual, snappy)
• Chilled Melon, Cucumber, and Coconut Milk Soup (a nice variation with the coconut milk)
• Chilled Roasted Yellow Pepper-Mango Soup (proof that you can never use too many mangoes)
• Chilled Zucchini Soup with Purslane (a little different--and so lovely)

This particular "gazpacho" recipe comes from The Washington Post, who adapted it from Edible:  A Celebration of Local Foods, by Tracey Rider and Carole Topalian.  It relies on no broth, rather it simply uses pureed fruits and vegetables for its base:  pineapple, yellow bell pepers, onion, and cucumber--plus 1/4 cup of water or pineapple juice are added to thin the soup if needed.  To round out the flavors, a touch of rice wine vinegar, hot pepper sauce, and a wee bit of brown sugar are added.  Garnishes include chopped both red and bell peppers, cucumber, jalapeño chile, and cilantro--plus, I added chopped jícama.

Cook's Notes:  You can be sure that I didn't bother to measure the ingredients carefully.  While I am certain that the recipe is perfect as written, this seems to me to be one of those glorious melding of mellifluous ingredients that just seem to go together in whatever amounts most appeal to the cook.  I also added chopped jícama, just because I love its sweet crunch.

Recipe:  Pineapple Gazpacho

(Recipe from The Washington Post, adapted from Edible:  A Celebration of Local Foods by Tracey Ryder and Carole Topalian)

Make Ahead:  The soup needs to be refrigerated for at least 2 hours and no more than 24 hours.  The flavor will improve with a day's refrigeration.

For the gazpacho:

1 ripe pineapple (about 4 pounds), peeled, cored, and cut into chunks (about 4 1/2 cups)

About 12/ medium yellow bell pepper, seeded, chopped (1/2 cup)

1/3 medium red onion, chopped (1/3 cup)

1 cup peeled seedless (English) cucumber, chopped

2 teaspoons unseasoned rice wine vinegar, plus more as needed

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper, plus more as needed

1 teaspoon light brown sugar (optional)

For the garnish:

About 1/4 medium red bell pepper seeded and finely chopped (1/4 cup)

About 1/4 medium yellow bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped (1/4 cup)

About 1/4 medium yellow bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped (1/4 cup)

4-inch length of peeled seedless (English ) cucumber, finely chopped (1/2 cup)

One medium jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

Leaves from 2 stems of cilantro or mint, finely chopped (1 tablespoon), optional

To make the gazpacho:  Process the pineapple in the bowl of a food processor until smooth; transfer to a large nonreactive bowl, preferably glass or stainless steel.  Taste; if the fruit puree is not very sweet, add the optional brown sugar.

Using the same food processor bowl, add the yellow bell pepper, red onion, cucumber, vinegar, salt, and white pepper.  Process until smooth, then add the mixture to the pineapple puree in the bowl and stir to combine.  Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours.

For the garnish:  Combine the garnish ingredients in a bowl.

To assemble:  Stir in the pineapple juice or water, 1 tablespoon at a time, into the pureed gazpacho to reach the desired consistency.  Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.

Divide among individual bowls; top each portion with the garnish.  Serve immediately.

Parting Shot:

Jenny's pig by the wonderful, late Danny Brennan

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Recipes, like life, are meant to be shared, but please ask before using text or photos.  Thanks!

Chilled Roasted Yellow Pepper-Mango Soup

Chilled Roasted Yellow Pepper-Mango Soup

Chilled Roasted Yellow Pepper-Mango Soup

by Victoria Challancin

Although I have lived in Mexico for twenty five years, I still find it odd that May is the hottest month. I mean, for most people in this hemisphere, May conjures up images of new growth popping through the earth, mild weather, and just a general prelude to summer.  But here in Mexico on the high central plateau, it is hot.  The countryside is crunchy-dry, the reservoirs are low, life in general crawls at a slower pace, and earth awaits the beginning of the rainy season.  Bougainvilleas may be in abundant bloom, but cacti are thin and drooping.  People are drooping.  What a perfect time for a refreshing cold soup.

Cold soups are just so uplifting--a cooling jolt to the senses, an awakening of the appetite, a bright encouragement to perk up and savor life.  And they are so flexible.  This recipe is no exception.  The combination of roasted bell pepper and mango seemed inspired to me, and it was.  Lovely.  A perfect marriage of two favorite ingredients.  If chilled soups aren't part of your culinary repertoire, this recipe is a nice place to begin.

Chilled Roasted Yellow Pepper-Mango Soup

Cook's Notes:  I used 2 yellow bell peppers and one orange bell pepper, just to give a more intense color.  Also, I roasted the peppers directly over an open flame on my gas stove.  The sour cream I used was Mexican crema ácida, which is closer to a crème fraîche than it is to an American-type sour cream, but even yogurt would work here as would the traditional sour cream called for in the recipe.  I opted for a seeded chile serrano instead of the hot sauce.  I also did not choose to strain the soup and it was just great!

Recipe:  Chilled Roasted Yellow Pepper-Mango Soup

(Recipe from Coastal Living Magazine)

Serves 6

3 large yellow bell peppers, seeded and quartered
2 large mangoes, peeled and cut into chunks (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 cup mango nectar
1/2 cup vegetable broth
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 to 2 teaspoons hot sauce (or 1 chile serrano, seeded)
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
Sour cream
Garnish:  Fresh mint

Place bell peppers on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet.   Broil 5 inches from heat 15 minutes or until blistered.  Place bell peppers in a large zip-lock plastic bag; seal and let stand 10 minutes to loosen skins.  Peel peppers, discarding skins.

Process peppers and mango in a blender or food processor until smooth.  Add mango nectar and next 6 ingredients; process until smooth*.  Cover and chill mixture 2 hours.  Top with sour cream and garnish with fresh mint, if desired.

*Note:  If desired, press mango mixture through a wire-mesh strainer, using back of a spoon to squeeze out liquid.  Discard pulp and solids.  Straining and discarding solids yields less volume but makes a very smooth soup.

Enjoy!

Chilled Roasted Yellow Pepper-Mango Soup

Parting Shot:

Sunday afternoon on our friends' ranch, the hammock




©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.


Recipes, like life, are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using text or photos.  Thanks!