Cumin: An Ancient and Thoroughly Modern Spice

Warm Chickpea Salad with Cumin and Garlic 

Cumin: An Ancient and Thoroughly Modern Spice

by Victoria Challancin

Many people think of cumin as a quintessential Mexican ingredient, and it may well be--in the north of the country.  But here in my corner of Mexico, cumin is used judiciously, with barely a whiff of it in any given dish.  And when there is too much cumin, the common response is the equivalent of "Yikes!  It tastes like Tex-Mex!"

Even though the cuisine of Mexico is one which is associated with an abundant use of cumin, the spice is a relative new-comer, arriving with the Spanish conquistadores.  Originating probably in Egypt, it spread to the Mediterranean (including Europe), India, Iran, and later through the trade route to China and other parts of the world.  From Europe it made its way to Mexico, where it does appear in many, many dishes, albeit sparingly used.

Cumin:  A Bit of History

Revered since antiquity as both a spice and as a medicinal plant, the history and lore surrounding cumin has had time to grow and settle.  With a history of over five thousand years, cumin comes to us today with a rich past.  Enjoyed by the ancient Egyptians as a culinary spice, it also was used in the mummification process as well as in ritual practices in temples.  The Old Testament mentions it several times, both as a source of currency for tithing and even how to harvest it!  The ancient Greeks loved it so much that they kept it on the table for diners to add directly to their food, just as in modern Morocco today (see the photos below).  And the Romans embraced it heartily and employed it in all sorts of dishes.

In early Europe, the Celts were known to have used it with fish dishes.  And later Medieval monasteries grew it in their herb gardens, helping to make it a common spice at a time when spices were somewhat rare and very expensive. At some point during the Middle Ages, however, cumin fell out of favor in Europe, except in Spain and Malta, where it remains popular today.

Unknown to the New World prior to around 1500, cumin came to the Americas via the Spanish and Portuguese colonists and traders, and took hold north and south.  Today it remains a fixture particularly in the cooking of Brazil, Mexico, and the American Southwest.

Cumin in Folklore

In ancient Greece, cumin symbolized excessive desire and was also said to be eaten by the miserly.  In ancient Roman folklore it was also often associated with greed, but also frugality.  Later, in the MIddle Ages in Europe, when cumin was one of the most common spices used, it became recognized as a symbol of love and fidelity as shown by wedding guests who often carried it in their pockets.  And as for the bride and groom, it was carried as a sign of commitment.  And soldiers were sent off to war with loaves of bread scented with cumin for good luck.  It was also thought effective in keeping lovers from wandering--lovers and chickens, that is.  Yes, it was used to keep both close to home.

The Arabs took it one step further:  they mixed it with black pepper and honey, considering it to have aphrodisiac properties.  Pliny the Elder, that great Roman naturalist and philosopher, also weighed in, calling cumin to be the "best appetizer of all condiments."  He also suggested that smoking the seeds would give a desirable "scholarly pallor."  And Socrates himself considered it beneficial as an aid to scholarly pursuits. 

Fresh cumin seeds from India, brought by a loving friend--in a coconut shell bowl

Culinary Uses 

After black pepper, cumin is the second most popular spice in the world, lending its distinctive aroma, warmth, and heady earthiness to the cuisines of Morocco, India, Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Iran, Malta, Cuba, northern Mexico, Spain, Brazil, the Middle East, Turkey, Uzbekistan, Tajkistan, and western China.  As for cumin's use in these countries, it often makes an appearance in such diverse spice blends as garam masala, curry powder, bahaarat, ras el hanout, American chili powder, and the Mexican blends for achiote paste and adobo.  Cumin also stars in some Dutch cheeses, such as Leyden, some traditional breads from France,  and in the Latvian cumin liqueur called Kummel.

Historically speaking, part of cumin's culinary popularity was due to the fact that its peppery flavor made it an affordable replacement for black pepper, which was hard to obtain and very expensive. Frugality couldn't possibly be the whole answer, however, as cumin does impart a sensuous depth and distinctive warmth to any dish it graces.

How to Use Cumin:

In addition to the various spice blends mentioned above, cumin is easy to incorporate in all sorts of dishes.  One easy example is to make a tea, or infusion, by allowing a teaspoon of cumin seeds to come to a boil in about a cup and a half of water, then leaving them to steep for about 10 minutes--in Morocco, this is a common remedy for upset stomachs.  Another easy way to incorporate cumin seeds into your cooking is to add them when roasting vegetables in olive oil.  

When I first began to seriously explore Indian cooking while living in the Middle East in the 1970s, I learned from a friend that a ratio of two parts ground coriander seeds to one part ground cumin seeds makes a great combination for seasoning all sorts of dishes--just use your imagination (I love it with tomato and rice).

Do you suffer from insomnia?  Try mashing a ripe banana with cumin and eating it at bedtime.

And a family favorite of my son's is a rice dish I made frequently when he was young (he ate it with corn):  Sauté basmati in ghee or butter with about teaspoon of freshly ground cumin (mix it with twice as much ground coriander as a variation), then cook it in either water or broth.  Easy and delicious.

When possible, buy whole cumin seeds, lightly toast them in a dry skillet for about 45 seconds, and grind your own powder.

Here is a recipe I made in class recently.  This salad is fantastic--truly it is.  Rich with warm, complex flavors, it is both interesting and easy to make. A keeper.  A definite keeper.

I found this recipe here at the wonderful and inspiring site:  The Kitchn at thekitchn.com.

Recipe:  Warm Chickpea Salad with Cumin and Garlic

(Recipe from The Kitchn)

Makes 4 to 6 servings

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds

1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes, or to taste

4 garlic cloves, finely minced

2 15-ounce cans chickpeas (garbanzo beans), rinsed and drained

1/2 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and finely chopped

3/4 cup Italian parsley, leaves only

Small handful fresh mint leaves

1 lemon, zested and juiced

3/4 pound English cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch square cubes 

Flaky sea salt

Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat.  When the oil is hot, add the cumin seeds and crushed red pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for about one minute or until the seeds are toasted.  The cumin will turn slightly darker in color, and smell toasted.

Turn the heat to medium low and add the garlic.  Cook, stirring frequently, for about three minutes or until the garlic is barely golden.  Do not let it turn completely brown or burn.

Add the drained chickpeas and the chopped tomatoes and turn the heat up to medium high. Cook, stirring frequently, until the chickpeas are warmed through and are shiny with oil.  Turn off the heat.

Finely mince the parsley and mint leaves and toss with the chickpeas.  Stir in the lemon juice and zest. Toss the cucumber with the chickpeas and taste for salt.  

Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving or overnight.  Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Enjoy!

Warm Chickpea Salad with Cumin and Garlic

Health Benefits of Cumin

A Brief Overview of the Medicinal Uses of Cumin:

Cumin is often used:

•  as a diuretic
•  as a muscle relaxant and preventative for muscle cramps
•  as a carminative (gas-reducer)
•  as an appetite stimulant

Of course, there are many more ways cumin is used for health benefits, but this list illustrates the best known medicinal uses.  

Let's Play "Spot the Cumin"

See if you can find the cumin in these rather dim photos of candlelit dinners in Morocco, where it normally accompanies black pepper and salt on the table in a three-way mini tagine.

A hint:  an example of the mini three-way tagine in which you find cumin, salt, and black pepper

This post will be my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging, hosted by Brii of Brii Blog, and begun by Kalyn of Kalyn's Kitchen.  This will be my entry to Spicie Foodie's Your Best Recipe event for May.  I will also send it to My Legume Love Affair, begun by Susan Wolfe of The Well Seasoned Cook and hosted this month by Priya of Mharo Rajasthan's Recipes.  Thank you to each of you!

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.


Like life, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using my text or photos.  Thanks!