Go Ahead, Play with Your Food

Roasted Garlic-Chayote Bisque and Red Pepper Bisque

Note:  The Rachael Ray Show just filmed an episode here in San Miguel de Allende.  Look at the clip called Rachael's Surprise for some beautiful shots of my home, San Miguel!

Go Ahead, Play with Your Food!

by Victoria Challancin

No matter what you mother told you, play with your food!  Just do it!  Or that's what I think every time I make a two-toned soup.  It is so gratifying to pour, and even more gratifying to eat.  And there are so many variations--below I will give you two that I recently made.

Two-toned soups are fun and easy to make.  Any time I have ever made these in class, I have discovered three things:  everyone is afraid to attempt the simultaneous pour, everyone is amazed at how simple it is in the end, and everyone is dazzled by the beautiful results.  And the variations are endless; pureed black and white beans are stunning, multicolored bell peppers magical, root vegetables practically scream to join the fray, winter squashes pair well with white beans or turnips, and potatoes set off just about any other colorful vegetable.  Just remember to keep the consistencies of the two soups approximately the same to facilitate ease of pouring.  And most of these cream or at least creamy soups are equally delicious served cold as well as hot.

The first of these soups was born out of a request in a private cooking classes I did with some fun and creative friends.  They specifically asked me to come up with a chayote-based soup, which I did.  Then I thought to pair it with a red pepper bisque to give them the opportunity to learn something new and fun.

Because chayote is naturally bland, I added a good bit of roasted garlic to give it some umph.  I used the Mexican technique of simply roasting garlic cloves in their husks on a comal or in a dry skillet.  Of course, the Italian technique of oven-roasting in foil with a drizzle of olive oil would work equally well.  For color I chose fresh basil, though cilantro or parsley would work according to your preferences and your menu.  Chicken broth was the base, but again, do what works for you--vegetable broth would also  be fine.

I paired the light green chayote soup with a red pepper bisque I made recently in a class for Mexican cooks as a part of another two-toned soup recipe.  The colors were stunning.

Jackie, pouring roasted garlic-chayote bisque and red pepper bisque

Jackie, still creating...see how simple it would be to tweak this a bit and have a Yin/Yang symbol?

Roasted Garlic-Chayote Bisque and Red Pepper Bisque

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin)

Serves 8.

For the Chayote Soup:

6 large cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 small onion, diced (about 1/2 cup)

3 cups chicken broth, plus extra to thin soup if needed

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,to taste

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup heavy cream

For the Pepper Soup: (this part comes from epicurious.com)

3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme, finely chopped

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

6 red bell peppers, roasted and roughly chopped (about 6 cups)

3 cups chicken broth, plus extra to thin soup if needed

1/4 cup heavy cream

Fresh lemon juice to taste

Make the chayote soup:

Place the unpeeled garlic cloves in a small skillet.  Roast over medium heat until slightly charred and 

soft, turning frequently.  Once cool enough to handle, peel, and set aside.

Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat.  Add the onion.  Sauté until soft, about 5 

minutes.  Add peeled roasted garlic, chayote, and chicken broth.  Bring to a boil, cover, lower heat, 

and simmer for 20 minutes, or until squash is tender. Allow to cool slightly, add basil, and puree (in 

blender in batches or with an immersion blender directly in the saucepan).  Return soup to the 

saucepan if using the blender method to puree, and add cream.  Mix well and check for seasoning 

and thickness, adding a bit more broth if necessary.  Set aside until ready to serve.

Make the pepper soup:  In a heavy saucepan cook the shallot, the thyme, and salt and pepper to 

taste in the butter over moderately low heat, stirring, until the shallot is soft, add the bell peppers and 

1 1/2 cups of the broth, and simmer the mixture, covered, for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the peppers 

are very soft.  Purée in blender and force through a sieve, if desired.  Whisk in the cream, enough of 

the additional broth to reach the desired consistency, the lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste.  

The soup can be made 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.

When ready to serve:  Pour hot soup into two 2-cup glass measuring cups.  Pour simultaneously 

into individual bowls, adjusting the flow and shape of the two colors of soups as you go.  Garnish 

with a drizzle of cream and more chopped basil, if desired.

Another pair of delicious soups:  Roasted Yellow Pepper Soup and Roasted Tomato Soup

with Serrano Cream from epicurious.com

Roasted Yellow Pepper Soup and Roasted Tomato Soup

with Serrano Cream

(from epicurious.com)

Serves 6.

                        For the Pepper Soup:

                                    3 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

                                    1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

                                    1 tablespoon unsalted butter

                                    6 yellow bell peppers, roasted and chopped coarse

                                                (about 6 cups)

                                   2 cups chicken broth plus extra to thin soup

                                    1/4 cup heavy cream

                                    Fresh lemon juice to taste

                        For the Tomato Soup:

3 pounds plum tomatoes, roasted

3 unpeeled large garlic cloves, roasted

3 tablespoons finely chopped shallot

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 cups chicken broth plus extra to thin soup

1/4 cup heavy cream

Fresh lemon juice to taste

            For the Serrano Cream:

3 fresh Serrano chiles or jalapeños, seeded and chopped fine

1 large garlic clove, minced and mashed to a paste                                                            with 1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sour cream

Make the pepper soup:  In a heavy saucepan cook the shallot, the thyme, and salt and pepper to 

taste in the butter over moderately low heat, stirring, until the shallot is soft, add the bell peppers and 

1 1/2 cups of the broth, and simmer the mixture, covered, for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the peppers

are very soft.  Purée in blender and force through a sieve.  Whisk in the cream, enough of the 

additional broth to reach the desired consistency, the lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste.  

The soup may be made 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.

Make the tomato soup:  In a heavy saucepan cook the shallot, the oregano, salt and pepper to 

taste in the butter over moderately low heat, stirring, until the shallot is soft.  Add the tomatoes and 

peeled garlic, and 1 1/2 cups broth and simmered the mixture, covered, for 15 minutes.  Purée in 

blender, forcing through a sieve.  Whisk in the cream, additional broth if necessary,  the lemon juice,

and salt and pepper to taste.  The soup may be made 1 day in  advance, kept  covered and chilled.

Make the serrano cream:  In a blender purée the chiles, the garlic paste, and the sour cream until 

well-combined.  Do not overblend.  Force through a fine sieve, cover, and chill.  Bring to room 

temperature before serving (if serving the soup hot).

Enjoy!

Note:  I am submitting the second of these recipes to the "non-event" Magazine Mondays, hosted by Ivonne on her terrific blog, Cream Puffs in Venice.  Check it out!

My home, San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Creamy Tuscan Bean Soup with Pancetta-Apple Garnish

Creamy Tuscan Bean Soup with Pancetta-Apple Garnish

by Victoria Challancin

I am a sucker for bean soups. When the weather turns cooler, I actively look for new ways to prepare them.  Practically every country embraces bean soup in some way as economical and substantial fare to warm up a cool day.  And the health benefits are impressive:  as one of the best sources of soluble fibers, beans are low in fat and high in protein, and rich in folic acid, copper, iron, and magnesium.  Not bad, this humble bean!

When I saw Deborah Mele's recipe on Italian Food Forever, I knew I had to try it.  I've made many bean soups in my life, but never one garnished with apple.  Apple?  As strange as it may sound, the combination of pancetta and apple (OK, I admit it, I had to use bacon as there was no pancetta to be found) works beautifully.  The apple gives it a hint of sweetness that works well with the bacon and the beans.

Mele suggests that cheesy garlic croutons or a dollop of pest would work well as a garnish, if you aren't inclined to try the pancetta-apple version.  But trust me, you should give it a whirl.  You won't be disappointed.

Creamy Tuscan Bean Soup

(Recipe by Deborah Mele of italianfoodforever.com)

Serves 6

1 pound dried cannellini beans

2 ounces finely diced prosciutto

1 medium onion, peeled & chopped

1 stalk of celery, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled & chopped

1 quart chicken broth

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Sea salt & black pepper

Prosciutto or Parmesan rind (optional)

Garnish:

1 apple, peeled and diced

4 ounces pancetta, diced (or bacon)

1 small onion, peeled & diced

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

To Serve:

Extra virgin olive oil

Soak the beans overnight in a bowl of clear water. The next day, drain and place in a 

saucepan, and add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, and 

simmer for 15 minutes.  Let stand covered for about 20 minutes, then drain.

Return the beans to the saucepan along with the prosciutto, onion, celery, carrot, garlic, 

and prosciutto or parmesan rind if using. Pour in the chicken stock and then add water as needed 

to cover the beans by 2 inches. Slowly bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Continue 

to simmer uncovered, until the beans are almost tender, 20 minutes or longer, depending on the 

age of the beans. Add salt and pepper, to taste, and continue cooking until the beans are tender 

but not mushy, about 20 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and let the beans cool.

Once cooled, remove the rind, then place the bean mixture in a food processor or blender 

and process until very smooth. Return the soup to the pot and re-warm.

Cook the pancetta, onions, and apple in the olive oil in a frying pan until tender and lightly

 browned. Remove from the heat and add the parsley. Toss.

Serve the soup in individual bowls with a tablespoon or two of the garnish on top, and

 drizzle with a little of the olive oil. 

Enjoy!

Fresh tomatoes from a Paris market

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.