Pearl Couscous and a Recipe

Giada's Mediterranean Couscous Salad

Pearl Couscous and a Recipe

by Victoria Challancin

Note:  There are two types of couscous, the traditional North African and the larger pearl variety.  Don't mistake the two types of couscous in recipes, however, as the cooking methods aren't the same, nor are they interchangeable.  

Pearl couscous, like regular couscous, is simply a pasta, a pasta with a rich history.  The North African-style of the traditional small-grained, granular couscous may be more familiar to many readers, but the larger size is also well-liked and much used, especially in the Middle East where it is particularly popular in Jordan, Syria, and Jordan. Based on the ancient North African berkukes or seksu, pearl couscous has been eaten in the Middle East for centuries.  Often is is called matfoul, from the Palestinian Arabic word for it, or in Lebanon, mograbieh, a word that clearly signals its earlier North African (the Maghreb) roots.

In Israel, its history is both newer and a bit different.  The Osem food company, partly founded by Israel's first Prime Minister, David Ben-Gurion, devised, during a rice shortage in the 1950s, a marketing campaign to promote a wheat-based rice substitute for the rice-dependent Mizrahi immigrants.  Pearl couscous, or ptitim, became an instant success.  So successful was this campaign, that the pasta became known as Israeli couscous.  Today it comes in a variety of shapes.

Whatever you call it, this thicker couscous is a culinary treasure, hardy enough to stand up to sauces.  Its chewy texture and nutty taste (from toasting) make it a versatile ingredient for hot side dishes, salads, and desserts as well.

The ever-entertaining Magali attempting to twirl pizza dough

Cook's Notes:  I chose to use this recipe by Giada De Laurentiis, because I liked the variety and amounts of fresh herbs it contains.  Obviously, this could be changed in myriad ways.  Instead of using the sweet-tart dried cranberries, you might substitute cucumber, kalamata olives, and a sprinkle of feta--use fresh dill and dried oregano instead of the herbs used here.  A Mexican version might include some crunchy jícama, cilantro, tomatoes, cilantro, onion, and chile, such as jalapeño or serrano.  Various nuts and seeds could be substituted as well:  pine nuts, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, pecans, pistachios, cashews, and so on.  Other dried fruits would work if you like the addition of sweet:  dates, dried cherries, dried blueberries, and dried currants.  Change up the dressing as well with the addition of garam masala, ras el hanout, harissa, curry powder, or even just a bit of cumin and/or ground coriander.

Recipe:  Mediterranean Israeli Couscous Salad

(Recipe by Giada De Laurentiis, Food Network)

Makes 6 servings

3 tablespoons extra-virgen olive oil, plus 1/4 cup
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 (1-pound) box Israeli couscous (or any small pasta)
3 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock)
2 lemons, juiced
1 lemon, zested
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup chopped fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup chopped fresh mint leaves
1/4 cup dried cranberries or raisins
1/4 cup, slivered almonds, toasted

In a medium saucepan, warm 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat.  Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.  Add the couscous and cook until toasted and lightly browned, stirring often, about 5 minutes.  Carefully add the stock, and the juice of 1 lemon, and bring to a boil.  Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, until the couscous is tender, but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes.  Drain the couscous.

In a large bowl, toss the cooked couscous with the remaining olive oil remaining lemon juice, zest, salt and pepper and let cool.

Once the couscous is room temperature, add the fresh herbs, dried cranberries, and almonds.
toss to combine and serve.

 Angus, age 14 weeks, midst more general destruction and a few orchid leaves

Parting Shot:

 Blooms on my gorgeous "orchid" tree

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Like life, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using photos or text.  Thanks!

Mexican Fiestas, el Mes de la Patria, and a Recipe

Mexican Fiestas, el Mes de la Patria, and a Recipe

by Victoria Challancin

Note:  I forgot my own camera and borrowed my friend's, whose battery died almost immediately.  I think the photos were taken on a low resolution.  Sorry about that--it was such a splendid affair, I regret not being able to do it justice through photos.

I live in a magical country.  Mexico. A country of startling surreal images at every turn.  Example:  On my way to a major grocery store this week, I had to stop in the midst of traffic at a major round-about to wait for a group of about 20 horsemen riding beautiful animals with large-pummeled Mexican saddles, wearing cowboy hats and old fashioned sombreros.  Very rustic, very touching--and complete with one of the group taking photos with a sophisticated SLR while maneuvering his horse in and out of traffic.  Then, once in the store itself, I was gently informed that I would have to evacuate the building in ten minutes to honor the victims of the 1985 earthquake that took so many lives in Mexico and the people who worked so hard to save others as a part of a Civil Defense celebration/drill.  Once in the parking lot, there was a group of people waving flags and cheering.  And here I thought it was about the possible improvement of evacuation times if we have another temblor...silly me.  It was clearly about celebration.

Yes, I live in a magical culture with people who exhibit such generosity of spirit at every turn.  Sometimes it takes my breath away.  Thank you, Mexico, our home for 25 years and the birthplace, culture, and patria of our only son.  Thank you.  For those of you who read and hear too much negative news on Mexico, I can tell you if you don't visit here, you are missing out on one of life's great experiences.  It is a gift.

And in Mexico September is el mes de la patria, the month of the country, the homeland.  There are push carts full of tempting food, parades galore, indigenous costumes, dancing, fireworks (oh, we always have fireworks), bands, and patriotic memorabilia everywhere.  And flags--the beautiful Mexican flag with its red, white, and green--the colors of the national liberation army in Mexico and  its eagle holding a serpent, perched atop a  nopal cactus, all born of an Aztec legend.  Magic.  Everywhere.

A Mexican Flag Dip

In Mexico we celebrate the month of September.  Yes, the entire month is one big celebration.  We begin with the President's State of the Union Address on the 1st. We remember the Niños Héroes, child cadets who died defending the country on the 13th. The charros, or horsemen, have their own special day on September 14th to show off their skills with live performances throughout the land. The birthday of Porfirio Diaz, former president and hero, is acknowledged on the 15th.  Independence  Day is on the 16th, complete with the grito, or cry for independence heard throughout the country, born in the nearby city of Dolores Hidalgo (yes, I live in the Cradle of Independence). September 27th marks the end of the War of Independence. Día de San Miguel Arcangel is on the 29th and marks a celebration in my own city of San Miguel de Allende.  And September 30th is singled out to celebrate the birthday of Father Jose Maria Morelos, one of the nation's founding fathers.  Yep, September is quite a month here in Mexico!

Squash blossoms, ready to be stuffed with cheese and grilled

When my good friend invited me to her Independence Day Fiesta on the 16th, I knew it would be special.  Not only is the physical space of her home beautiful, she has exquisite taste and a grand, overwhelming joie de vivre that permeates her life and the lives of those close to her.  And I knew the food would be fun and creative.  And of course it was.  I am just sorry the camera died before I could document it and that the resolution was so low...

Guacamole with the two-toned chips served in Maguey cactus leaves.  Of course.

A plate of crudités

Local artisan cheese

More local cheeses

The bar, complete with margaritas, a sombrero, and the flag!

Meat for tacos al pastor with a pineapple piece sitting atop, ready to be roasted on the vertical spit

A partial display of salsas and taco toppings long before they were served

Shrimp and cheese quesadillas being prepared in the kitchen

The Mexican flag, itself a work of art and legend

The Mexican Flag Dip

Cook's Note:  For another version of this recipe with an even more realistic eagle, click here and here.  Some versions use chunky guacamole like I prefer (use a bean or potato masher) and pomegranate seeds; others use smooth guacamole and a red tomato salsa, chunky or not.  This is more of a recipe idea than a recipe itself.  You can Google both "guacamole" and "refried beans" for precise recipes.  It is the presentation that is key.

Almost a Recipe:  Mexican Flag Dip

(Recipe by Victoria Challancin)

Note:  You can use my black bean recipe which uses dried avocado leaf for a tasty base for this dip.

In a 9 x 13-inch dish, spread on the bottom a 1-inch-thick layer of refried black or pinto beans. Over the beans, on the left-hand side, spread 3 cups of your favorite guacamole.  In the center third, spread a layer of Mexican sour cream or the similar crème fraîche; and on the right-hand third of the dish spread 2 to 3 cups of pomegranate seeds, or arils, or substitute a bright red tomato salsa of choice.

Serve with corn chips or totopos.

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Like Life, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using text or photos.  Thanks!

Class Fun, Puptides, and a Recipe

 Asian-Style Chicken Meatballs and Spring Rolls

 Class Fun, Puptides, and a Recipe

by Victoria Challancin

I'm sure that by now for those of you who follow my blog, you have the idea that I love giving cooking classes--especially to the Mexican cooks I have been lucky enough to work with.  Most have never travelled out of the state they were born in; most only have experience with Mexican cuisine.  They are like sponges--curious about world flavors, new recipes, new techniques, new sensations.  Wednesday's class was perfect training ground for all of the above with the making of sushi (nori on the outside and inside-out), spring rolls, potstickers, scallion pancakes, Asian-style meatballs, salad, and a mango cheesecake flan.

Two types of American-style sushi:  California rolls with surimi, avocado, and cucumber with the rice on the outside and Philadelphia rolls with cream cheese and smoked salmon.

 Laura, using a silpat mat to roll sushi

 Magali having success rolling out her scallion pancake--and rerolling into a spiral and rolling it out again

Vero rolling out a pancake

 Paula Grande making a spring or egg roll, which she rightly called a "chimichanga"

 Paula Chica, who begins university next week with a scholarship in gastronomy, filling a spring roll

First efforts at rolling sushi

 We pleated the potstickers by hand, then used my new gadget to form them as well--just for fun!

 Potstickers, not pretty, but such fun to make and eat

For recipes I have used in the past:

Potstickers:  Chinese Pan-Fried Dumplings with Dipping Sauce

Lumpia (Miniature Filipino Spring Rolls)

Mini Vegetarian Spring Rolls with Homemade "Duck" Sauce

Puptides

It is a known scientific fact that the mere sight of a friendly dog induces the body to produce "puptides," chemicals which help the body fight disease and create a general feeling of well-being.

Swami Beyondanada, humorist

 Angus, age 13 weeks, midst the wreckage of a milk bottle, an over-turned water bucket, my beloved Bird of Paradise plant (or what is left of it), and mango--on his legs.  Happy.  Leaving me with puptides.

 Border Collie agility 

Asian-Style Chicken Meatballs with Lime-Sesame Dipping Sauce

Cook's Notes:  I used ground chicken instead of the turkey the original recipe called for.  I also added a bit more honey in the sauce.  We also made them a bit smaller than the recipe suggests so we could serve them with toothpicks.

Recipe:  Asian-Style Chicken Meatballs with Lime-Sesame 

                                                   Dipping Sauce

                                      (Adapted slightly from the original recipe by Skinnytaste.com)

Dipping Sauce:
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon honey, to taste
1 scallion, chopped

Meatballs:
1 lb ground turkey or chicken
1 egg
1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
2 tablespoons scallions, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/4 cup panko crumbs
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil
Sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, to taste

Combine the soy sauce, lime juice, water, sesame oil, green onion, and honey together in a bowl.  Whisk untel well-combined; set aside.

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.  Coat a baking tray with cooking spray.

Combine the ground meat, egg, green onion, cilantro, ginger, garlic, panko, soy sauce, sesame oil, sea salt and pepper together in a large bowl.  Gently mix the ingredients until well-combined.

Shape 1/4 cup of mixture into a ball, then place on baking tray.  Repeat with the remaining meat mixture.

Bake for 15 minutes or until cooked completely.  Serve immediately with the dipping sauce.

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Like life, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using text or photos.  Thanks!

Corn Fritters with Serrano Honey and Gremolata

 Corn Fritters with Serrano Honey and Gremolata

Corn Fritters with Serrano Honey and Gremolata

By Victoria Challancin

This is one of those recipes that instantly grabbed me when I spied it in my weekly CUESA newsletter.  Modern, healthy, and with an interesting blend of components, I knew it would work.  And wow, it certainly did.  To say these fritters were a hit is a gross understatement.  Everyone loved them, including my class, family and house guest!

CUESA, the Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture, operates the Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market in San Francisco.  In addition to its educational programs, the organization feature cooking classes and provides interesting recipes for using fresh produce in its weekly newsletter.  If you don't know this site, you should definitely check it out for some interesting and healthy recipes.  For example, Summer Vegetables in Green Chile Atole with Fresh Cheese or Grilled Corn or Arugula Salad with Smoked Tomato Vinaigrette--what's not to love?

 The honey, ready to heat (yes, the orange zest is unfortunately green)

Serrano Chiles, Mexico's own

A Few Notes on Serrano Chiles

This is a short excerpt from my Guide to Mexican Chiles, which I hope to offer as a free download soon.

The name "serrano" refiers to the highlanders from the Sierras, or mountains of Mexico.

Size:  1 1/2 -3 inches x 1/2 inch

Description:  A thick[walled, elongated, cylindrical chile with a glossy, bright to deep green color that ripens to red.

Heat Scale:  7 out of 10

Other Names:  This chile is so common in Mexico that it is typically simply called chile verde, or green chile.  It is also sometimes called típico, or typical, for the same reason.

Uses:  It is used in guacamole, relishes, salsas, as a seasoning, grilled or fried (called toreados--a popular table-side accompaniment to grilled meats), in cooked dishes, and dpickled.  Raw or cooked, this is the most-used chile in Mexico.

Overview:  This is the chile of choice in Mexico for table sauces, just as the jalapeño is in the United States.  When you want to add a bright, sharp, uncomplicated heat, this is the chile to use.  The seeds are rarely removed.

 The strained honey--now I am consumed with thinking of all the ways I can use it!

Cook's Notes:  If my orange zest doesn't look the right color, it is because the oranges were nearly green!  I probably would add the traditional garlic to the gremolata next time.   I also added a bit more oil to the gremolata, but probably because "1 bunch parsley" is sorely deficient in helping the cook to know how much to add;  I, no doubt, used a big bunch that required a bit more oil to moisten it.  For the buttermilk, I used Mexican sour cream and for the sweet pepper I added some yellow and some red bell pepper for color.

Recipe:  Corn Fritters with Serrano Honey and Gremolata

(Recipe from CUESA)

Serrano Honey:

1 serrano chile

1 dried ancho chile

1 orange, zest only

1 cup local honey

Gremolata:

2 oranges, zest only

1 bunch Italian parsley, chopped

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

Fritters:

4 ears fresh corn

12/ cup buttermilk

3 eggs

2 serrano chiles

1 bunch cilantro

1/4 cup minced shallots

1/2 cup minced sweet pepper

2 12/ cups whole wheat flour

2 tablespoons kosher salt (I used a bit less)

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon oil (I used a bit more)

To make the serrano honey, split the chiles and remove the seeds and ribs.  Remove the stem and seeds from the ancho chile.  Use a peeler or microplane zester to remove the zest from the orange.  Combine the serrano, the ancho chile, the orange zest, and honey in a sauce pan and bring just to a simmer over low heat.  Remove from heat and let steep for at least 1 hour or until cool.  Reheat and strain.

To make the gremolata, use a microplane to remove the zest from the oranges.  Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir to coat the parsley in oil.

To make the fritters, steam the corn in the husk, then shuck and remove the kernels from the cob.

Measure 2 cups of corn kernels into a mixing bowl and set aside.  Place the remaining corn in a blender with the buttermilk and eggs and purée.  Add the purée to the corn kernels in the mixing bowl.

Split the serrano chiles, remove the seeds and ribs, and mince.  Mince the cilantro leaves.  Add the cerranos, shallots, sweet pepper, and cilantro to the bowl.  Stir in the flour and season with salt and pepper.

Heat a cast iron skillet over medium heat and add the oil.  Drop 2 tablespoons of corn batter into the heated skillet and cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side.

To serve, arrange on a serving plate and drizzle infused honey over the top.  Finish with a pinch of gremolata.

Another view

 A huge pile of fritters

A Couple of Class Photos

A couple of my students, happily at work...

 Magali and Paula sharing a laugh (Paula has just finished high school and begins university in two weeks to study gastronomy with a scholarship obtained via the NGO I work with called Mujeres en Cambio--check it out here)

 Laura zesting the sad green oranges

Vero, intent on learning--and having a good time while at it!

Note:  I have added this to the amazing and talented Nancy at Spicie Foodie for her YBR (Your Best Recipe) as my entry for my favorite recipe posted in September.

Parting Shot:

 Summer green...

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Remember that like life, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using photos or text.  Thanks!

Healthy Corn Soup with Poblano Chile Garnish

Creamy Corn and Poblano Soup

Healthy Corn Soup with Poblano Chile

by Victoria Challancin

We all have our haunts, places we regularly visit to get our own particular inspiration and get new ideas.  Martha Rose Shulman's "Recipes for Health" series in The New York Times is just such a site.  Each week Shulman focuses on a seasonal ingredient or theme and explores it in the loveliest of ways, offering vibrant new recipes with interesting touches.  All appealing.  All healthy.

Last week I was dazzled with her newest recipes featuring corn--corn, glorious corn, just like the sweet corn we now have flooding our markets.  I was particularly drawn to this creamy, but creamless, corn soup, garnished with my favorite chile, the chile poblano.   With a wee smattering of ingredients,  Shulman created a soup worthy of summer's bright produce:  corn, poblano chiles, and cilantro.  Making her vegetarian broth by simply boiling the corn cobs, she created a sweet, light base for this simple soup.  Garnishing it with diced, roasted chile poblano and a sprinkling of fresh cilantro, she managed to harness the bright flavors of the season in the simplest recipe imaginable.

Cook's Notes:  Shulman recommends rinsed the charred chiles.  I never do this as I feel like it removes a layer of flavor.  Instead, I take a paper towel and gently wipe the charred skin away.  If a bit is left, all the better.  Use white onions for the best taste in this recipe.

Recipe:  Creamy Corn and Poblano Soup

(Recipe by Martha Rose Shulman, NYTimes, August 21, 2012)

6 ears of corn (5 cups of kernels)

6 cups water

Salt to taste

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 medium white onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 poblano chiles

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or 2 tablespoons minced chives (optional)

Cut the corn off the cobs.  You should have about 5 cups kernels.  Set aside 1 cup of the kernels.

Place the corn cobs in a large soup pot and add the water.  Make sure they are covered or at least floating in the water; you can break them in half if they are very large.  Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, partly cover and simmer 30 minutes.  Season to taste with salt.  Remove and discard the cobs.  Line a strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a bowl.  Strain the broth and measure out 5 cups.  Freeze any leftover broth.

Heat the oil over medium heat in a heavy soup pot and add the onion.  Cook, stirring, until it is tender, about 5 minutes.  Add the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds, and then add the 4 cups of corn kernels and salt to taste.  Cook, stirring often, for 4 to 5 minutes, until the corn is just tender.  Add the corn broth and bring to a simmer.  Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile roast the chiles, either directly over a gas flame oer under a broiler, turning often until they are uniformly charred.  Transfer to a plastic bag and seal, or transfer to a bowl and cover tightly.  Allow the peppers to cool, then remove the charred skin, rinse and pat dry.  Remove the seeds and veins.

Steam the remaining 1 cup of corn kernels for the garnish for 5 minutes, until tender.  Set aside.

Working in batches, purée the soup in a blender, taking care to remove the insert from the top and cover tightly with a kitchen towel to avoid splashes.  Return to the heat, taste and adjust salt, and heat through.

Ladle the soup into bowls.  Combine the steamed corn kernels and diced chiles and place a spoonful in the middle of each bowl of soup.  Garnish with a sprinkling of cilantro or chives if desired, and serve.

Fresh poblano chiles, Mexico's own

Brief Notes on Poblano Chiles

We probably all have certain aromas that evoke home.  The smell of roasting poblano chiles is that for me.  As I walk in the streets of San Miguel on any given day, the scent of roasting poblano chiles frequently greets me, drawing me in, calling to my heart.  That quintessential smell of Mexico, roasting chiles, always evokes a smile.

Poblano chiles are somewhat unique in vast world of Mexican chiles in that they are used both as a seasoning flavor and as a vegetable in and of itself.  The fresh version of this chile is called poblano, or "people's chile--or "the chile from Puebla," both a town and a state in southeastern Mexico where the chile originated.  On a scale from 1 to 10, with habaneros being a 10 and bell peppers being a zero, poblano chiles rate a mild 3.  Usually, these chiles aren't terribly picante (though at the height of the season they can be surprisingly spicy) and for this reason are easily tolerated by even those who profess not to like chiles.  

The flavor of the poblano chile is deep and rich--quite unlike any other.  Prized as a chile for stuffing, the chile poblano reaches its height of popularity in September, the month honoring Mexican independence, when it is featured throughout the Republic in the national dish of chiles en nogada, a roasted poblano stuffed with a meat picadillo studded with candied cactus, raisins, nuts, fruits, and doused in a heavenly walnut sauce garnished with pomegranate seeds.  Yum.  But I digress.

Physically, the poblano is easy to spot.  A large chile, 3 to 6 inches in length and 2 to 3 inches wide.  Broad at the shoulder (hence the name ancho, or "wide", when dried), this chile tapers to a point, giving it a somewhat heart shape.  The name varies as it travels.  For example, in the American state of California, it is often called chile pasilla, which, in Mexico, is an entirely different chile.  To remove the waxy, thin skin, and to bring out the intense flavor, poblano chiles are usually char-roasted and peeled before using.

Poblano chiles can be found stuffed (as in chiles rellenos--with meat or cheese), in rajas con crema (roasted chile strips in cream), and in cream soups, rice dishes, salsas, and more.  Because of its rich flavor and general mildness, it flourishes as a vegetable.  Once the ripe chile is dried, it takes on a completely different incarnation as an ancho chile, or one of several other cultivars.  Fresh or dried, this is simply the most wonderful chile in the world to me, delicious, versatile, and evocative of home.  A perfect combination.

Parting Shot:

Squash blossoms and cilantro for sale in the Saturday Organic Market

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Like life, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using photos or text.  Thanks!