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Monday, May 27, 2013

Moroccan Textures and a Recipe

 Beet Hummus with Black Tahini and Cinnamon-Pear Balsamic Vinegar

Moroccan Textures and a Recipe for Beet Hummus with Black Tahini and Cinnamon-Pear Balsamic Vinegar
by Victoria Challancin

Note:  If you would like to be on my mailing list for information about my next Moroccan tour, email me at flavorsofthesun@gmail.com.  Thanks!

 Making black tahini in the blender

For a dinner I made on Friday for visiting friends, I featured 9 Moroccan salads, including this interloper: beet hummus.  While not Moroccan at all, it blended with the other flavors beautifully, making it a perfect addition to the general panoply of dishes featuring a small portion of the myriad salads found on the Moroccan table (more on this soon, I promise).  This dish was a stand-out and a favorite with everyone.

I first encountered a recipe for beet hummus on Serious Eats.  Intrigued with a recipe that included three of my favorite ingredients, beets, chickpeas, and tahini, I knew I had to try it.  When I discovered that it included black tahini, something totally new to me, the deal was clinched.  Having just purchased a wickedly delicious cinnamon-pear balsamic vinegar from San Miguel's Olio Fino, which features olive oils and balsamic vinegars with staggeringly fascinating flavors, I thought it would be a perfect addition to the hummus, and it was!  Utterly delicious... Also, for more information on hummus, check out the post where I explain in depth the mystery of this oft-maligned and misused term (it includes a great recipe for a hummus platter as well).

When a special friend requested that I post this recipe as the first of many from Moroccan menu, how could I resist?  For you, E.

Recipe:  Black Tahini
(Recipe adapted from Serious Eats)
Cook's Notes:  The original recipe calls for 1 cup black sesame seeds to 2 tablespoons oil.  I found that the seeds I used required at least double the amount of oil plus a good pinch of kosher salt to give it the taste I was looking for.  This is truly a recipe that requires tweaking.  Because the seeds are black, you have to rely on your ose to tell when the seeds are sufficiently toasted, but it should only take about one minute.

1 cup black sesame seeds
3 to 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
A large pinch of kosher salt

Place the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat.  Toast, stirring constantly until fragrant, being careful not to burn them.

Transfer the sesame seeds to a blender.  Begin with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, adding it slowly.  Add additional olive oil until you have the desired consistency, which is thick and creamy.  Add salt and blend again.  Adjust, adding more oil or salt, as required.

Recipe:  Beet Hummus with Cinnamon-Pear Balsamic Vinegar
(Recipe adapted from Serious Eats)
Cook's Notes:  I used a delicious specialty balsamic vinegar, though regular would work fine.  Fig balsamic would also be particularly nice.  Looking for a sharp spicy hummus, I umphed the amount of tahini, garlic cumin as well, but this is completely a matter of taste.  I also boiled the beets due to time, but roasting would yield a more complex flavor.  As with the black tahini recipe itself, this one requires tweaking until you are happy with the balance of flavors.  Even with the additional amounts I used, this dish was surprisingly mellow and gently flavored.  Check the original recipe for a starting place and then play with it, as I did.

4 medium beets ( about 1 lb), cooked, peeled, and cubed
1 (15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and ground
2 tablespoons black tahini (or substitute regular tahini)
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons Cinnamon-Pear Balsamic Vinegar or other balsamic viengar
1 large garlic clove, minced or pressed
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional as needed
Kosher salt to taste
Mint or chopped parsley to garnish

Place beets, chickpeas, cumin, tahini, lemon juice, vinegar, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth.  With machine running, slowly drizzle in olive oil, additional oil if needed.  Season with salt to taste. Serve, drizzling with extra olive oil and a mint sprig or chopped parsley.

Serve with crusty bread, pita, or pita chips.


Moroccan Textures:
Morocco is truly a marvel at every conceivable level:  the gentle people, the rich culture, the food (OMG, the food), the colors, the smells, the textures.  Endlessly varied, it is an assault to the senses everywhere you turn.  In my last post I offered you a few colors...today I give you textures...and for even more reasons why I visit Morocco every year, please check out my summary here.  

 Bronze doors on the royal palace in Fès

A polished ammonite fossil, approximately 18-inches wide, from Erfoud

 Fishing boats and nets, Essaouira

 A tagine decorated with corral and hennaed camel bone

 A tea-seller's hat, Marrakech

 Snails, ready to be dropped into rich anis-scented broth

A hammered tin container (for bread?) in front of zellij tilework (terra cotta tiles covered with enamel and set into plaster--these are several hundred years old) from our riad in Fès 

 Richly embroidered material in the Fès souk

 Our desert bivouac, piled with carpets
 Hassan, our guide on the camel trip in the Sahara

 Oscar and Amy surrounded with Moroccan textures:  fine, soft sand, dry desert grasses, and a Berber wedding blanket--and turbans, of course!
 The undulating sculpture of the shifting Saharan sands

 Tadelakt, carved lime plaster work, and zellij tiles from our lovely, old riad in Fès

Layers of arches in the ancient royal stables in Meknès

 Stacks of carpets, each lovelier than the last (note the 400- to 500-year old worn zellij on the floor



Parting Shot:  
 More textures...


Life life and love, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using photos or text.  Thanks!

Victoria Challancin
Flavors of the Sun Cooking School and Tours
San Miguel de Allende, México




Moroccan Textures and a Recipe

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Moroccan Fun--with Colors!


That's me on the lead camel!

Moroccan Fun--with Colors!
By Victoria Challancin

I'm home!  After almost a month in Morocco, I am home again.   Dazzled anew by the warm and generous Moroccan people, replete with great food, agog over the richly varied topography, touched by kindnesses too many to mention, in awe over the architectural details and sheer imagination involved in the intertwining of art and design, entranced by the pure beauty of the country and its people, enchanted on so many levels I can barely process them, and awash in extravagant colors...I am home again.  Returned to my family and friends, richer in spirit, humbled by the generosity I encountered, profoundly touched and deeply happy.  Whew!  What a trip!

As many of you know, I lead small groups, cultural rather than culinary, to Morocco each year.  After completing my seventh such journey there as a group leader, I am more dazzled, more respectful, more captivated by the people and the culture of Morocco than ever.  Some of you have been rightly scolding me for not having reported to you sooner, but truly I am home again and ready to share.  Today it is the colors...the food and recipes will follow soon!

The Colors of Morocco:
















Some Interesting Facts about Morocco:
When I first meet with my group, I try to sum up a few facts about Morocco that are crucial to any understanding of it as a place or a culture:  it is NOT the Middle East; it is essentially Berber rather than Arab (and I mean this in no was as a criticism of the Middle East, which is dear to my heart and my personal development, as most of you already know); it is vast and varied; couscous and tagines are not the same thing; and finally, couscous is not a grain, but is a pasta instead...with these in mind, here are a few more facts on Morocco.
  • Mint tea, often called "Berber whiskey," is the national drink of Morocco and is made with fresh mint and green tea; making proper mint tea in Morocco is considered an art form of which the people are justifiably proud
  • Moroccan food is spicy, but not particularly hot
  • Morocco uses many imported spices, but also grows its own saffron, oranges, lemons, mint, olives (and thus, olive oil) and dates
  • Moroccan food is a fusion of Arab, European (French and Spanish), and African influences
  • On Friday, most people/families eat couscous, the main Moroccan Berber dish which existed long before the arrival of the Arabs
  • Couscous is a pasta made from semolina--it is not a grain
  • The most common spices used in Moroccan cooking are:  cumin (kamoun), turmeric (kharkoum), ginger (skingbir), paprika (tahmira), anis seed, cinnamon (karfa), sesame seed, coriander (kasbourqesbouror  ),  parsley (maadnous), saffron (zaafrane), mint, and pepper (libzar)
  • The main meal is usually eaten at midday (except during Ramadan and some feast days)
  • Bread is eaten with every meal
  • Salads can be hot or cold, cooked or raw
  • Meals typically start with a series of hot and cold vegetable salads, followed by a tagine of lamb, chicken, or vegetables, followed by couscous topped with meats, vegetables, and a broth/sauce
  • At the end of a meal, mint tea is often served
  • Lamb is the most common meat consumed in Morocco
  • Chicken and turkey are also commonly eaten
  • Although sweets are common in Morocco (often served with tea), they are not necessarily served at the end of a meal;  seasonal fruits, especially orange slices with cinnamon and a sprinkle of sugar, however, are commonly served to finish a meal
  • Morocco's official name is "The Kingdom of Morocco"
  • In Arabic, Morocco's name is "Al-Mamlaka al Maghribiya," which translates as "The Western Kingdom"  ("al Maghreb" means "the West")
  • The term "Berber" can be pejorative, depending on how it is used; most Berbers prefer to be called "Amazigh"
  • Kissing on the cheek is a common way of greeting among Moroccans; the closer your relationship, the more kisses
  • Morocco was the first country to recognize the United States as an independent country
  • Morocco has about 32 million people and is around the size of Canada or slightly smaller that the state of California
  • Although Morocco is an Islamic country, it follows the Gregorian calendar where Saturday and Sunday are the weekend, but uses the Muslim calendar for religious purposes
  • 99% of the population of Morocco is Muslim, with Christian and Jews making up the rest
  • Morocco is the second largest producers of roses in the world
  • The oldest continuously functioning university in the world is the University of Al-Karourine in Fès, which was established in 859 A.D by a woman
  • Morocco gained independence from France in 1956
  • The Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Romans all had a presence in Morocco and there are even many stone circles which dot the country and prove there was contact with the megalithic cultures of Europe
  • Rabat is the capital of Morocco, though Casablanca is its largest city
  • Morocco is a monarchy with a parliament and an independent judiciary (i.e. a constitutional monarchy)
  • Morocco, the 12th richest country in Africa, is divided into 16 regions made up of 62 provinces
  • Morocco is the only African country in Africa which does not belong to the African Union
  • Morocco is a member, however, of the Arab League
  • Morocco is also a major non-NATO ally of the United States
  • Morocco has four ancient imperial cities:  Marrakech, Fès, Meknés, and Rabat
  • Although nearly all Moroccans are Arab or Berber, Arabic is the official language (though many speak Berber)
  • The Moroccan Berber language consists of three main Amazigh dialects, Tarifit, Tashelhit, and Tamazight
  • Spanish is also spoken widely in the north of the country
  • The Arabs brought Islam, along with the Arabic language and elements of culture to the Maghreb during the Muslim conquests of the 7th century
  • French is also widely spoken
  • The official language may be classical Arabic, but Morocco has a distinctive dialect of its own, called Derija
  • The trade routes that criss-crossed Morocco dealt principally in salt, gold, slaves, ostrich feathers, precious wood, spices and more
  • 99% of the Muslims in Morocco are Sunni
  • Berbers are identified mainly by language, but also by customs and culture
  • In Morocco, about 40% acknowledge a Berber identity, though many more have mixed Arab-Berber ancestry
Parting Shot:
That's still me...on the lead camel, taking the photo

Please do not use photos or text without permission.  Thanks!



Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Watercress, Mizuna, and Grapefruit Salad with Curry Vinaigrette

Watercress, Mizuna, and Grapefruit Salad with Curry Vinaigrette

Watercress, Mizuna, and Grapefruit Salad with Curry Vinaigrette
by Victoria Challancin

Before I made this salad, I can honestly say that I never thought to add curry powder to a vinaigrette.  Somehow it just sounds wrong.  But how off was I on this one.  This salad is a delight!  The tartness of the grapefruit, the sweetness of the dates, the peppery taste of the cress and mizuna, and the complexity of the curry flavors make this such an interesting dish.  


Recipe:  Watercress, Mizuna, and Grapefruit Salad with Curry Vinaigrette
(Recipe from myrecipes.com, Cooking Light)

4 cups trimmed watercress
4 cups torn frisée (about 1 head)
1 cup red grapefruit secionts (about 2 grapefruits)
1 cup thinly sliced red onion
8 whole pitted dates, sliced
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon good quality curry powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 teaspoons grapeseed oil

Arrange watercress and frisée on a large platter, and top evenly with grapefruit, onion, and dates.

Combine vinegar, curry powder, and salt in a small bowl, and slowly add oil, stirring constantly with a whisk.  Drizzle over salad.  Serve immediately.

I am entering this recipe as a part of the YBR event from utterly fabulous and talented Nancy, of Spicie Foodie.  Be sure to check out her terrific roundup of best recipes from around the blog world!

Parting Shot:

A local cafe...

©Victoria Challancin.  All Rights Reserved.

Like life and love, recipes are meant to be shared, but please ask permission before using photos and text.  Thanks!